Blown Guys- Which Radiator You Running?

Eh.. dunno. It's been 95 degrees down here and after about 15-20 minutes of driving it's getting up to 195-200 on the autometer gauge... even at highway speed it's around 195... Even though it's not overheating, it's filling up theaftermarket overflow and sometimes overflowing.. I have a mr. gasket thermo rad cap, and it will read 180 and the gauge will read 195. I know the exlporer intakes tend to run hotter than the stock ones. Also if I turn off the car and turn it back on, the temp on the gauge may jump 10 degrees. Could be the sending unit not far down enough or not grounded well ( too much teflon paste on the threads)
.

Which thermostat are you running?
 
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True. Just curious as I am comparing it to my setup. I run the same thermostat.

Just thinking if I should make my life easier and go with the 2 row champion. I can't seem to find a 3 row or 2 row with a 1" tubes that is at or below under 2" thick.

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True. Just curious as I am comparing it to my setup. I run the same thermostat.

Just thinking if I should make my life easier and go with the 2 row champion. I can't seem to find a 3 row or 2 row with a 1" tubes that is at or below under 2" thick.

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yep. that is why I went with it... $150 and its all aluminum welded with a lifetime warranty. tubes are 1" thick vs. others that are 5/8" or 3/4" unless you get a Ron Davis or Be Cool for $600. granted it was before I put the V3 on.

195-200 is not overheating again.....fairly certain the problem is I bought too small an overflow and the stock airdeflector is bending, not to mention the 95+ degree heat and humdity.
 
You mean the exact same overflow tank that I bought on your recommendation? :bang:


I have the same over flow . This was cruising in 98 degree heat in myrtle beach

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Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
So what you're saying, is that Mikes car is just destined to be a problem child. :D
I mean your not getting into boost in that nasty ass weather without it creeping . On a a hour and 55 min highway drive it runs about 196-200 in that weather . There is just no heat transfer in high 90s when the feel is over 100.

But cruising is no issue . Soon as the temp breaks to normal temps outside . Game on !



Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
I kind of skimmed through a lot of this so forgive me if this has already been covered:

The t-stat has nothing to do with system temp:
If the cooling system is up to the task, then the t-stat will most certainly have an effect. With the t-stat wide open, if the car is not adequately cooling, then this of course, is not a t-stat problem.

Hot hot weather and.... er, humidity:
Radiators don't sweat (if yours does, there's your problem :p ). Real feel doesn't mean anything to a cooling system. 95 degrees is 95 degrees when the evaporation of water from a warm surface is not a factor.

Mike: Are you still running the OEM chin spoiler? If not, try installing one that is the width of the radiator and 2 to 3 inches tall. Get on the highway and check for a difference. If you're running any kind of inductive cowl, this should help quite a bit. The more negative air pressure that you create behind the radiator, the more airflow you're going to get while you're moving.

I would try this first before tossing bigger this or that, into the equation. You may even notice that the front end doesn't lift as much when you're going down the road at (1)55. :O_o:

Just for chits and grins, can you post an image of your hood and the front of your car? Also...
 
yeah noobz- it may be just me

Car wil be fine and the temp starts creeping up after 15 min from 180 to 195. On highway speed sometimes it will come down a bit, in hotter weather stays at 195 ish.

I ordered an aluminum replacement air deflector.
I have a ram air hood with a 1.5" cowl

I've owned several Vortech cars and this is the first one that I'm scratching my head on.

as requested.................
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yeah noobz- it may be just me

Car wil be fine and the temp starts creeping up after 15 min from 180 to 195. On highway speed sometimes it will come down a bit, in hotter weather stays at 195 ish.

I ordered an aluminum replacement air deflector.
I have a ram air hood with a 1.5" cowl

I've owned several Vortech cars and this is the first one that I'm scratching my head on.

as requested.................
20160513_185136.jpg
20160513_184950.jpg
20160513_185136.jpg
20160513_184950.jpg
20160513_184937.jpg


So purty


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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Nice car!

I run a 4" cowl so hopefully that is helping a bit.

I am at a cross roads where I can modify the stock shroud (e fans wont fit w/ this rad) and keep this thicker radiator of mine OR try to get Champion to exchange it for a 2 row model where the stock and any future electric fan will work w/o any clearance issues.
 
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yeah noobz- it may be just me

Car wil be fine and the temp starts creeping up after 15 min from 180 to 195. On highway speed sometimes it will come down a bit, in hotter weather stays at 195 ish.

I ordered an aluminum replacement air deflector.
I have a ram air hood with a 1.5" cowl

I've owned several Vortech cars and this is the first one that I'm scratching my head on.

as requested.................
20160513_185136.jpg
20160513_184950.jpg
20160513_185136.jpg
20160513_184950.jpg
20160513_184937.jpg


The last time I chased this problem, it was on a car with a hood very much like that one (if not that very one. Stormin' Normin' hood?).

Is there some way that you can block the ports from the underside, without screwing it all up? All of the air volume that SUPPOSED to be going through your radiator and then under the car is taking the path of least resistance. Guess...






Edit: LOVE the pics BTW. :nice: Super sharp. :nice:
 
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Very nice looking car Mike! That's a fiberglass hood, right? That does not help with cooling. Steel hoods radiate heat out of the engine compartment. The fiberglass is a very poor material for heat transfer. Any openings in the cowl probably dont even make up for the lack of ability for fiberglass to radiate heat.

Feel a steel hood with a hot engine compared to a fiberglass one. You'll notice how much hotter the steel hood is. That is heat transferred through the metal hood to the outside of the engine compartment. It's one of the reasons Corvettes run hotter, especially the old school ones. Heat all trapped and cant radiate through fiberglass body.
 
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I don't honestly think that the material that the hood is made from is going to help dissipate heat from a running motor.

Maybe if we had a metal hood attached to the motor through a layer of thermal paste? :D
 
Well, heat dissipation is heat dissipation, period. A 5 degree diff on the hotter days maybe, maybe not. It might just be multiple smaller factors adding up, of which lower heat dissipation through body panels is part of the equation.

Is the block punched out? Thinner cylinder walls will transfer more heat to the coolant. What about the ignition timing curve in the tune? Boosted applications usually get treated to retarded perameters in the tune. Retarded timing can increase engine temps.

A little here, a little there and there. It adds up.
 
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The last time I chased this problem, it was on a car with a hood very much like that one (if not that very one. Stormin' Normin' hood?).

Is there some way that you can block the ports from the underside, without screwing it all up? All of the air volume that SUPPOSED to be going through your radiator and then under the car is taking the path of least resistance. Guess...






Edit: LOVE the pics BTW. :nice: Super sharp. :nice:

Thanks man... I call it the money pit.

Eh. you want me to plug what? Not sure how plugging off them would impact air from under the car going through the radiator? . Wouldnt that make the underhood temps hotter. I installed the new Alum air damn.. Much stiffer than the stock one and sticks down about an inch more... The new larger overflow--- uh yeah slight problem.. the damn thing is too large it wont fit and I also had a bracket welded on to the side of the radiator with tabs that fit the existing overflow.I'd have to remove the E fan to get access to the bolts that hold on the overflow.. plus I have a chrome lower rad hose that the larger overflow may hit.... Before i dig in and remove the fan. hose, fab up new brackets,,,,, I'll take it for a spin with the new air deflector,
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Very nice looking car Mike! That's a fiberglass hood, right? That does not help with cooling. Steel hoods radiate heat out of the engine compartment. The fiberglass is a very poor material for heat transfer. Any openings in the cowl probably dont even make up for the lack of ability for fiberglass to radiate heat.

Feel a steel hood with a hot engine compared to a fiberglass one. You'll notice how much hotter the steel hood is. That is heat transferred through the metal hood to the outside of the engine compartment. It's one of the reasons Corvettes run hotter, especially the old school ones. Heat all trapped and cant radiate through fiberglass body.

Thanks JOhn for the compliment but I've never heard that about fiberglass vs steel hoods. My thought is the steel absorbs the heat more than the fiberglass, not transfers it better. The hotter steel hood would make the underhood temps higher, wouldn't it?

Have a custom diablo tune tha is very conservative... 10 base timing and we pulled back on the total timing to keep it safe.. I could have left it more agressive and another 60hp.
 
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Thanks JOhn for the compliment but I've never heard that about fiberglass vs steel hoods. My thought is the steel absorbs the heat more than the fiberglass, not transfers it better. The hotter steel hood would make the underhood temps higher, wouldn't it?

Have a custom diablo tune tha is very conservative... 10 base timing and we pulled back on the total timing to keep it safe.. I could have left it more agressive and another 60hp.

Steel absorbs the heat under the hood then radiates it outside of the engine compartment. I'm not saying that every car with a fiberglass hood is going to run hotter. But any setup on the borderline of cooling capacity can show differences from little things.

The retarded total timing might add a little heat too.
 
Steel absorbs the heat under the hood then radiates it outside of the engine compartment. I'm not saying that every car with a fiberglass hood is going to run hotter. But any setup on the borderline of cooling capacity can show differences from little things.

The retarded total timing might add a little heat too.
I've pondered the cowl hood thing before. The back of my 2in cowl would get so hot it would distort my cowl vent. Timing was at 12 degrees...fuel stayed stoich 14.7 ....leaned a bit under full throttle....temp stayed around 190.

These cars were designed to suck air out through the trans tunnel....maybe cowl hoods create a drop in pressure at the firewall. Fiberglass is an awesome insulator ( heat wrap ). That factory mat under the hood....yup fiberglass.

If cowls were so great maybe manufacturers would use them on everything.

When my car is done I'll gladly be the test dummy.
 
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