Runnin Warm

[orygonian]

Hey all... first post here, 67 Mustang with a mildly built 289 with Doug Thorley tri Y headers. I have a 3 row copper radiator (new) and Mark VIII fan/shroud, I can keep it cool idleing or just cruisin no problem but when on the freeway it seems to run pretty warm (fan or not). By warm I mean 220 or higher especially when pulling a hill. Makes sense that the harder working motor puts out more heat but 220+ seems high to me. Timing and advance are correct, bottom hose has the spring in it so it does not collapse, mechanical guage has been checked for accuracy. It has been this way since I restored the car 5k miles ago, don't like taking it on the freeway for this reason. Could it be that the radiator just can't keep up when the motor is working harder? I'm considering an aluminum radiator to see if that helps but would like some opinions from you guys before I throw $$$ at it. Thanks in advance, Mark

 

[90sickfox]

What thermostat are you running ?

 

[orygonian]

Stat is 180, I can see by the Guage that it is working properly.

 

[tos]

Which direction do you have you fan blowing? You can wire them to push air out the front of the car (bad idea) or towards the engine (good idea) They do this so you can mount it on either the front or the back of the radiator then the customer wires it to direct air from front to back. If for instance it is blowing out the front then as you drive it is fighting with the natural flow of air.
Its a long shot but would explain why its doing what it is doing.

Another thought is if your stat is in backwards it would take longer to open at the right temp?

I prefer 4 row aluminum myself but you should be able to make that setup work.

 

[orygonian]

Yep, fan is blowing in the right direction. Shopping for an aluminum radiator now, anyone install a crossflow in their 67/68? A write up would be awesome. I'm looking at inlet (top) drivers side so I wouldn't need to change the water pump or run a long bottom hose. Surely someone has done it.

 

[Moosee1955]

A improper installed thermostat would overheat even at slow speeds. I have a good friend that has a pumped small block 350 chevy in his 67 el camino. He had a similar cooling issue. Turns out he didn't ground engine block. He has aluminum heads/ intake. Sure enough he had to redo his intake gaskets that another shop installed wrong. You should have seen all the crud blocking cooling channels. You can test your old radiator for blockage. Run your hand carefully along top, bottom, and middle when warm. If you've got a cool spot, bingo! With thermostat install, always install pellet can towards engine, pintle side out. Let us know what you find.


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[Robert Campbell]

A improper installed thermostat would overheat even at slow speeds. I have a good friend that has a pumped small block 350 chevy in his 67 el camino. He had a similar cooling issue. Turns out he didn't ground engine block. He has aluminum heads/ intake. Sure enough he had to redo his intake gaskets that another shop installed wrong. You should have seen all the crud blocking cooling channels. You can test your old radiator for blockage. Run your hand carefully along top, bottom, and middle when warm. If you've got a cool spot, bingo! With thermostat install, always install pellet can towards engine, pintle side out. Let us know what you find.


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[Robert Campbell]

Please let me know what your timing is set at and what distributor you are using. I run most mild cars at 12 to 14 degrees initial timing with 38 total. If you have a vacuum advance distributor you can dial back the vacuum advance to remove the mid power pinging.

Proper advance is one key to over heating. Retarded cars run way hotter, make less power, and have poorer gas mileage.

Rob