Hi all. I have a 91 gt that's been modded.. I installed a 94 gt fan and radiator about 3 months ago andyesterday the barrings sounded like they was about to lock up so I stopped and ordered a new 94 fan that will bolt to the radiator. The car unless driven hard alwaysruns between 205 and 210 when pretty warm outside. Today I picked up the new fan and assembly which is identical to the one that locked up. After installing I drove the car for about a hr.. when sitting in traffic itwas fine running right at 200 but the problem is drivingdown the Rd at 60 it creeps up to as high as 225 230 and that driving very easy but I could stop and let itidle and it would drop back down to 195 to 200. Seemsit should be the opposite here but I would like some opinions of what's going on here since I replaced thefan with the same fan assembly.
Cooling Issue
- Thread starter Stanger76
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Hi, I'm going to ask you several questions,lol...Did you have to wire the new fan into the factory harness?
Are you sure the fan is "Pulling" air through the radiator and not pushing air into the bay?
Was the radiator new or used? With the car running can you feel air being pulled through the radiator?
Also have you checked the temps at both tanks on the radiator-and across the core? Also checked the top and bottom hose temps?
Are you sure the fan is "Pulling" air through the radiator and not pushing air into the bay?
Was the radiator new or used? With the car running can you feel air being pulled through the radiator?
Also have you checked the temps at both tanks on the radiator-and across the core? Also checked the top and bottom hose temps?
No it was wired already to a switch on meaning it runs when the switch is turned over. I replaced the fan that locked up with the same kind of fan.
Yes I checked to ensure its pulling torward the engine thus through the radiator.
It is a brand new fan.
No not checked temps at different points on radiator.
Since I replaced the one that locked up with the identical same radiator I assumed it was as easy as pull it replace and hook wires back to the new fan as they've been. I'm wondering if maybe it's my water pump? Even tho when I drove home from work today with the fan sounding as if it was going to lock up at any sec the car ran the same temp as always. This started as soon as I installed the new fan
Yes I checked to ensure its pulling torward the engine thus through the radiator.
It is a brand new fan.
No not checked temps at different points on radiator.
Since I replaced the one that locked up with the identical same radiator I assumed it was as easy as pull it replace and hook wires back to the new fan as they've been. I'm wondering if maybe it's my water pump? Even tho when I drove home from work today with the fan sounding as if it was going to lock up at any sec the car ran the same temp as always. This started as soon as I installed the new fan
Moosee1955
Active Member
- Sep 30, 2016
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Water pumps rarely stop pumping, the bushing starts leaking when they fail. If you want to check output of pump, pull lower hose fill rad with water crank motor. If it's good, you'll see water pumping out. They rarely quit. You need to be sure you don't have a partially blocked radiator. That's more common. Are you running an electric fan or a regular blade/ clutch fan setup. Also just to be sure your gauge/ sending unit is correct. Stick a radiator temp gauge in the top of rad neck. Be sure temps are same. You have a self tightening serpentine belt correct? All the pulleys/ bearings in great shape?
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
if your problem is at highway speed its not the fan. Fan problems occur at city/stop and go driving.
Check the following
Check the following
- air deflector
- air in the system
- clogged radiator
- water pump
- radiator cap
- collapsed hose
Ok I checked all and everything is functioning. Checked belt,pump,new thermostat, bleed air out, radiator flushed..
I look I have air deflector on the bottom of radiator but there is no side atr deflectors.. that may very well be my issue but nothing changed as in they weren't there before the fan change. I have a 94 5.0 radiator and fan..
my car never ran hotter going down the hwy then 205 -210 and I'm in Georgia where it can get ridiculously hot.. now sitting in traffic or stopped just idling my car runs 195 to 200 and it's always ran cooler in traffic but now on hwy it runs 215-220 and only change is a new complete fan assembly.. I've heard others say at high speeds their stang runs cooler and gets warmer in traffic but mine has always been opposite.
Yesterday I drove it hard and it got up to 230 but no hotter. When I stopped at a light it was at 230 and traffic was bad so I was sitting there for a few mins. When I took off it instantly started going down to its normal 200-205. I also have a new aftermarket temp gauge as I know stock is garbage but I've had this new one for 6 or so weeks.
I look I have air deflector on the bottom of radiator but there is no side atr deflectors.. that may very well be my issue but nothing changed as in they weren't there before the fan change. I have a 94 5.0 radiator and fan..
my car never ran hotter going down the hwy then 205 -210 and I'm in Georgia where it can get ridiculously hot.. now sitting in traffic or stopped just idling my car runs 195 to 200 and it's always ran cooler in traffic but now on hwy it runs 215-220 and only change is a new complete fan assembly.. I've heard others say at high speeds their stang runs cooler and gets warmer in traffic but mine has always been opposite.
Yesterday I drove it hard and it got up to 230 but no hotter. When I stopped at a light it was at 230 and traffic was bad so I was sitting there for a few mins. When I took off it instantly started going down to its normal 200-205. I also have a new aftermarket temp gauge as I know stock is garbage but I've had this new one for 6 or so weeks.
My guess would be that you still have air in the system try jacking up the front of the car when you bleed the air out of the system this helps push all the bubbles in air to the radiator cap
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Moosee1955
Active Member
- Sep 30, 2016
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Fans that malfunction whether electric or clutch will cause overheating at stop or slow speeds. I agree with jacking up front of vehicle or park uphill. Leave tank radiator cap off run up to temp, be sure theirs no air in system. Sometimes doing something like changing fan can trigger something else. I know it makes no sense but it happens. You might want to change your tank cap also. Their cheap enough. A partially plugged radiator will cause your problem. Try a good radiator flush powder or cleaner. Back flush system through heater core hoses. The fact that your higher temps are at higher speeds are a flow problem. One last thing, is your engine have the appropriate grounds. My good friend didn't ground his 350 chevy motor in his 67 el camino. You wouldn't believe the metal transfer inside his engine. Aluminum will cause an electrolysis or transfer of metals. Aluminum heads and intake and cast iron block, bad combo without ground straps and coolant. Let us know what you find.
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Moosee1955
Active Member
- Sep 30, 2016
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One other thing came to mind. Is your air conditioning/ radiator cores clean and clear of debris. If too many bugs or junk gets stuck in there, it will slow down air flow. Get an air hose and gently clean out gunk. You can gently use a soft brush.
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