Engine 331 Cam Choice.

2011rustang5o

Active Member
Jan 5, 2011
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Bought a 93 lx coupe with a DSS 331 stroker kit, track heat heads and upper/lower intake, 70mm throttle body and maf. I believe 24lb injectors.

The cam I think is too aggressive (unknown specs except "custom blower cam" on the build sheet). It's pretty damn choppy and surges/bucks between 1600-1900 rpm cold or warm.

What's a decent off the shelf cam? Not going for power numbers but just a street friendly cam with lope.


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Have you ran any codes to make sure it's not something else? Or a vacuum leak? There are a lot of cam choices but would need more info from you for a recommendation. My advise is to check out comp cams,Lunati,Bullet cams and fill out their forms for a recommendation.
 
Surging and bucking at that RPM is common with most aftermarket choices if all you're doing is a bolt in and go. Spend the money you were going to drop on a cam, on custom tune, from a reputable tuner. You've gout enough done to the car that it's running out of the stock ECU parameters.

Swapping out to a different cam isn't going to dramatically improve drivability...or power for that matter, but having your ECU reprogrammed to maximize your current set up will.
 
Well it had a egr code, evap canister code and speed sensor no continuity. I think those were old codes. Since I got the car iv replaced the o2 sensors, iac, speedo gears, speedo cable and cleaned the maf as well as properly set idle and tps. I flushed out the codes and earlier there were no more codes. Only issue is it might not have enough drive time to reset the codes yet.

Base timing is at 10 and it has a flip chip with the paperwork showing a dyno tune back in 06.. tried 14 degrees of timing and it didn't like that at all.


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Surging and bucking at that RPM is common with most aftermarket choices if all you're doing is a bolt in and go. Spend the money you were going to drop on a cam, on custom tune, from a reputable tuner. You've gout enough done to the car that it's running out of the stock ECU parameters.

Swapping out to a different cam isn't going to dramatically improve drivability...or power for that matter, but having your ECU reprogrammed to maximize your current set up will.

No real shops up here that do tuning so I'm gonna have to wait until next summer when I go back to Texas. Thought about a mail order tune but I doubt that will be worth a damn.


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Well it had a egr code, evap canister code and speed sensor no continuity. I think those were old codes. Since I got the car iv replaced the o2 sensors, iac, speedo gears, speedo cable and cleaned the maf as well as properly set idle and tps. I flushed out the codes and earlier there were no more codes. Only issue is it might not have enough drive time to reset the codes yet.

Base timing is at 10 and it has a flip chip with the paperwork showing a dyno tune back in 06.. tried 14 degrees of timing and it didn't like that at all.


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If the VSS issue hasn't been sorted out, get that fixed before you look into swapping cams. A bad VSS signal will add to the jerky drivability that you described.

A functioning VSS is a must on a MAF car.
 
Will do. Kinda pissed off that I put new speedo gears in and a new cable and the :poo: still has a slight bounce to it.

So if there is no continuity in assuming it's either VSS or VSS wire harness.


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Update: pulled the plugs (new autolites) and regapped to 50 and threw in a new fuel filter. Barely any bucking now. Will need to do a complete drive cycle to see if any codes come back.

Coming from the land of obd2 cars (2014 gt) these dinosaur obd1 cars with zillions of adjustable parts is a learning curve. Actually loving it so far.


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