Engine Bucking While In Gear.

Just got off phone with oreillys around corner from me. Yes they can test your old tfi ignition modules fellas. So why not pull yours off and test it before replacement. Be sure to put heat sink grease on back of it if you reuse it, or install new one. One last question, you mentioned your stang ran when you reinstalled msd coil. Do you have a cdi ignition? If so you have to run a cdi coil, or you'll burn out regular ones. Cdi ignitions have voltage spikes of up to 500 volts.


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Its your cam and tune that's causing the issues, not your ignition. Cams that were designed to make horsepower on the big end, don't generally have nice street manners down low. Bucking below 1,500RPM is very common in a small block EFI V8 with a hot cam. You want a cam with at least 112-114 degree's lobe separation to keep the ECU happy on a street car. The further away from this figure, the shorter the shorter the power band seems to get and low speed torque and driveability suffer. My suggestion would be to do your best to find out exactly what cam is in this thing, and start budgeting for one that's more street friendly if you can't.

Also, I wouldn't count on the fact that it's been "tuned" to eliminate that from the list of possibilities. A lot of so called "tuners" will shoot for maximum horsepower on the dyno, but spend very little time on driveability. So while it may technically run well, keeping the A/F ratio's in check across the board and make good numbers on a dyno, that's not to say it's doing you any favors down low.

Welcome to the world of high performance.....where nothing is a straight forward as it seems on paper and everything costs twice as much as you thought it would.
 
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Ok I ALREADY SAID I HAVE NO CODES. IT IDLES JUST FINE TOO!
Seriously? You can only plug the coil in 1 way unless you are a :leghump: tard.
Any way to test the TFI in my garage? Doubt it's the issue but who knows. Got a fuel pressure gauge on the way so il have to wait for that to show up.


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Sorry I missed that part of your thread that said no codes, my bad. Well after exhausting all electrical gremlins, you might have to have engine retuned fuel wise to see if they can get rid of your bucking. It's possible with the high performance parts you have you'll have to live with it, or put in less agressive head/ cam. Like a good friend said in his shop, it cost money to go fast, how many dollars worth do you want! Have a good weekend. Keep us posted if any progress, Moose.


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Ok I ALREADY SAID I HAVE NO CODES. IT IDLES JUST FINE TOO!
Seriously? You can only plug the coil in 1 way unless you are a **** tard.
Any way to test the TFI in my garage? Doubt it's the issue but who knows. Got a fuel pressure gauge on the way so il have to wait for that to show up.


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No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.
 
No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.
I had a similar problem and after chasing my tail several times I remembered that a friends scanner would not ' communicate' with the ecm. I was cruze'n this site and did the jumper wire thing and no codes, it was like a light bulb above my head, no code 11, wouldn't talk to scanner. I swapped the computer for a known good one and never looked back. It was bucking just bad enough to beat the springs out of my clutch plate! (insert little guy smack'n himself on the forehead) just a question, is the car an original V8 car?
 
No code 11 (two flashes when the computer dumps the codes)? A perfectly functioning system will always get a code 11, it is the everything is OK code. The 11 code is computer passed its internal self test.
If you don't get an 11, you have computer or wiring problems.
Please check and repost.

Yep code 11 which isn't really a code but just a system check


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I had a similar problem and after chasing my tail several times I remembered that a friends scanner would not ' communicate' with the ecm. I was cruze'n this site and did the jumper wire thing and no codes, it was like a light bulb above my head, no code 11, wouldn't talk to scanner. I swapped the computer for a known good one and never looked back. It was bucking just bad enough to beat the springs out of my clutch plate! (insert little guy smack'n himself on the forehead) just a question, is the car an original V8 car?

As far as I know it's a true v8 car


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As far as I know it's a true v8 car


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You can make sure by looking at your registration or title. I have used decodethis.com it may show you there. Cruze'n these forums I found several writeups about things go'n wonky on v8 swaps, even on auto to stick swaps but I am leaning towards the cam thing. Keep fiddling with it, this efi stuff is not that hard, just different.
 
Yep code 11 which isn't really a code but just a system check


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I am well aware of the purpose of the code 11. Many people will post that they got no codes, not realizing that if you don't get a code 11, that the computer has a serious internal problem. Usually it is because the signal ground for the ECT, ACT, TPS, EGR and Map/Baro sensors inside the computer burned the trace off the computer PCB. This is due to either using the wrong O2 sensor harness or using the wrong connector when dumping the codes.
 
You know it's disappointing when you try to give possible trouble spots to a member, only to get negative comments from other readers. Yes I've seen the best techs out there hook a coil up in reverse, your eyes get tired, can't see the positive from neg clearly or get distracted. The other comment about his starter/starter electrical switch. I was just commenting on what work was done previously. That's where you back track and look. I can't tell you how many times a reader knocked off a wire/ hose and didn't know it. Guys lets all work together not ridicule other techs here. It sure makes for a better site and getting better. Their are a lot of quality people here, enjoy it it's free, not a job!


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You can literally NOT hook this coil up backwards. Simply impossible. It has a one way only connection.

Car has had this issue since Iv bought it a few weeks back. So it's not a knocked off wire. Iv actually gotten the car to run better.

I'm still learning these cars so il take any info.


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Hello everyone...i have simular but slightly different issue have a 92 5.0 lx just purchased replaced all 8 plugs dizzy wires oil change oil filter and cleaned throttle body and upper intake distributor was the last thing done but first put new cap and rotor it bucked and jumped with load at 3000k rpm so we replace the dizzy because thought was the module on there no longer bucks but seems under powered and run on the hot side temp wise sitting 3/4 and stablizing there.....any suggestions?
 
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Hello everyone...i have simular but slightly different issue have a 92 5.0 lx just purchased replaced all 8 plugs dizzy wires oil change oil filter and cleaned throttle body and upper intake distributor was the last thing done but first put new cap and rotor it bucked and jumped with load at 3000k rpm so we replace the dizzy because thought was the module on there no longer bucks but seems under powered and run on the hot side temp wise sitting 3/4 and stablizing there.....any suggestions?
Check the the distributor was stabbed correctly and verify your timing. Contrary to popular belief, you can stab the distributor one or two teeth off. Down on power and hot sounds like it may be too far retarded. With the distributor fully seated, ensure that the rotor is pointing somewhere between `11-`12-o'clock position at TDC of the compression stroke. Once you know the distributor is in right, unplug the spout connector and verify (with a timing light) your ignition timing is at least 10* BTDC. You can usually run a little additional advance in the 11-12 degree range without any adverse effects.....more if you're running premium fuel, though I haven't seen much benefit in running it that high.
 
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Revised 15-Apr-2016 to add fix for TFI hitting the thermostat housing while trying to set the base timing at 14°.

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.

Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

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