Sigh,.......
You cannot run the stock fuel tank if it is your intent to also run the stock injected fuel pump as well. you CANNOT regulate 60 P.S.I. down to 5-6.
That is the number one hurdle most people choose to ignore when they want to change over. After that, you'll have to determine what fuel pump, and how you intend to supply that pump (at the pick up) with fuel.
It's not rocket science, I've seen some pretty cobbled up fuel systems that work. An electric pump needs to be mounted as low as you can get it, and at the back of the car (electric pumps "push" fuel, they do not pull it) If you run any new pump rated for a carb, then more often than not, you'll have to regulate that pressure down anyway (from 14-20 down to 5-6).
Holley's regulator is stupidly simple, and requires no return line. So in essence, one feed line and your done.
27.00 from Summit,...NOT 128.00.
What you do for ignition after that can be as simple as a duraspark, and either a factory box, or one of the aftermarket pieces from MSD/Crane/Mallory blah-blah-blh to trigger the ignition, and finito!!! you will have converted the car.
As far as reliability/cold starts/resale.....
Usually those few that offer negative comments here have never owned a car w/ a carburetor in the first place.
Carburetors did just fine for the first 70 years that they were used . The cars always started, in all temps,..and managed to go 100k miles at the same time.
I had a carb on the last project car. Complete conversion on a SOHC 4.6. The car started everytime, and managed to get 23 MPG plus. I'm on record 4 years ago making that statement after driving that car to MW. I drove it to Bowling Green in October.
One of those mornings the temp read 29 degrees. It also started right up.
Carburetors offset cold starts w/ an equally old school technology called a choke. Again,...probably the majority of the carb haters either never hooked it up, or disconnected it altogether as part of their "racer approved" mod regimen. No choke = poor starting performance on a cold morning,...but having one requires the following all to complicated starting procedure:
#1. Depress accelerator pedal completely to floor once.
#2. Turn key.
#3. Sit for 1 whole minute as engine runs long enough to "kick down" from choke cam.
If you can possibly be inconvenienced for that long, that a carburetor will work perfectly for you.
There are arguments across the board about the trade off/or the gaining of power when swapping a over to a carb, I cannot talk to that,..I try to know a little about what I comment on. But my overall instincts when considering that is to call it inconsequential in your case.
Resale on a SN 95 is a non issue.
Lastly,......purely from a tuning issue.
You only have to have the most minimal set of hand tools, some tuning skills,...(i.e. how to turn a screw driver,..how to assess whether the car has a stumble or bog, a friend to follow you to observe a WOT throttle pull, and a willingness to make the required changes to the squirters, jets, and power valves to fix what needs to be fixed.
If you buy the right sized carb for your engine, and use Holley's size recommendation chart for your engine size, and intended RPM band usage,...the carb will be so close right outta the box, you wont need to do jack.
In other words...A street driven 5.0 w/ mild mods, and a RPM band to 6000 only needs a 650 CFM carb MAX.
If however, you use the "Bufords guide to bigger is better carb sizing", and put a 750 DP on a 306.......you're gonna be one of those future guys that get on here and tell other people how carburetors suck.