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I would go one at a time as well, that way you can reference the other side if needed. I put in one piece torque boxes, if I did it again I'd go...
8 3/4 Chrysler rear
Edit - going by the width there it's either an E body or B body rear. If it's a sure grip you could get some bucks for it...
Get it where you like it then screw it all together with sheet metal screws. Once it's all pulled together with the screws a lot of things can...
I have a full quarter for a '70 that went on just as easy. They are expensive but well worth the money. I like to put stuff together with sheet...
Car snob alert.:rolleyes:
POR15 = body man in a can
Typically you want to buy your wheels/tires first, set them in place then measure for your rear end width.
Hook a charger or booster up to the battery when you crank it and see what happens.
HEI needs direct current right from the battery
Make sure it gets uninterrupted power with key on
Make sure you don't have it hooked to a wire...
Don't use flux core.
I wouldn't say I like it, but I use it on stuff you won't/can't see, like inside frame rails and such. I've used it on sandblasted surfaces and it...
It would "work" if you went to a front steer rack as well.
People seem to think everything on old cars fit together perfectly form the factory.
VINTAGE WHEEL WORKS WHEEL 17X9 VINTAGE 40 1965-1973 - CJ Pony Parts, Inc.
I have 275/40/17 on the back of my '69, 17x9 wheels.
How do the heims on the shaft on your arms like the angle?
The only ones I see on the site are the offset ones and they list them for $60 apiece. Still cheap... I'm looking for a shaft I can use with...
Did you fabricate the shafts for the upper a-arms or did you source them somewhere?
My '70 was rusted int he same spot. There are four layers there all sandwiched together. By the time I was done I had replaced them all.