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not sure about the specs but here's the flow:

what speedo gear are you using? what year stang is the transmission out of? either way a 23 tooth speedo gear will get you about as close as you're gonna get. should put you within a couple of mph of accurate

J&M makes good products. IIRC, the owner is an ex-employee of MaximumMotorsports. IMO, you can't go wrong with either company.

code 41...your passenger side o2 sensor indicates lean, but half the time this is because the o2 sensor itself is faulty. i suggest you switch that o2 to the driverside and move the driverside o2 to the passenger side. then reset codes, drive it for about 20 minutes, and recheck codes. if the 41...

i think thats one of those things you would need to "turn on" with a tuner. here's a couple more diagrams to add to the confusion:

the stock springs are actually pretty decent for launching. you might want to look into some drag shocks, ie lakewood BTW, progressive springs have a variable spring rate. as the spring compresses it gets progressively stiffer. in contrast, specific rate springs have the same spring rate...

^^^what he said. plus need to Check for Codes. if you have no TPS codes (23, 53, or 63) there's no need to mess with the TPS. PUT A HEAT SHIELD AROUND THAT AIR FILTER! my2cents

not really clear what you're trying to figure out. they are both for torque arm setups...do you have a torque arm? the 390-430 are progressive springs and are stiffer than the 350-390 which are also progressive.

if you have an egr code present the EVR will not operate and will not apply vacuum to the valve. clear codes and drive around for approx 20 minutes. check codes and if no EGR code is present than everything is operating correctly, no need to check vacuum. if you feel that you must check vacuum...

even the steel ones weigh next to nothing, so the aluminum can't save much weight...a couple of ounces maybe.

might as well custom fab something. you can get the tubing here: http://www.intakehoses.com/ , and i just use a stock replacement filter from a 91 prelude...its a canister style similar to a cone filter but cylindrical...not conical. be sure to use a heat shield to prevent fan wash from entering...

the hanging rpm you are experiencing is called "dashpot". its supposed to do that a little bit. once your idle is lowered to the appropriate rpm it will not be an issue. focus on the vacuum leak possibility and getting your idle right. my2cents

the stock lower is listed at 150 so the stock intake would likewise be 150, where the saleen/vortech is 180

if passenger side its probably the ECT, which tells the computer the temp of the engine coolant. if driverside it is likely the ACT which tells the computer the tmp of the air charge. but, yes we need a pic to be certain.

that t5 with 2.95 isn't doing you any favors at the track. also might want to think about a different cam. degreeing the cam is a must. have you Checked for Codes?

did you use the right fluid? ford ps pumps take ATF, not regular power steering fluid.

you could get an explorer intake for pretty cheap...$100-200 depending on which one you get. some come w/ egr capabilities, some do not. then you'll have to start saving for the more expensive stuff: gears, cyl heads, etc. don't bother with a cam until you get the cylinder heads.

the idle speed is likely to raise when you raise TPS voltage with the engine running. this is because you have just shifted it into part-throttle mode. after turning the car off and restarting, the new "base" value for the TPS is recorded and the idle should be back to normal. as evidence for...