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One thing to consider: If you think you will upgrade the brakes to a 12" or 13" disc, then you should take that into consideration now. A 12" disc will require a min. of 16" wheel; the 13" brake needs a 17" wheel. I have 16"x7" up front with 205/55-16s and 16"x8" on the rear with 225/50-16...

Maybe your 302 has a new-style cam and 5.0L firing order. Can you find out from the previous owner? Also, have you tried moving the dizzy around while you or someone else cranks (in case you're way retarded - well, not you, the dizzy)?

Ha, ha. Joke's on me. You can't use the rear axles when you need to unload the rear suspension. My bad.

If yo have the stock intake manifold, swapping in a Performer RPM or Stealth intake will add power. Like the others said, cam specs would really be helpful.

I put stands under the rear axles, as wide as I can given what I want to do (for stability), and under the most forward, level, section, of the front frame rails. You will have to unload the the springs (front and rear) to do what you want to do, so these are the best places, IMHO.

Someone did a build with a 351 using stock Explorer heads and a XE276HR cam and made 350/400 at the crank. So, I think your estimate of 380/400 is low, even though you have a bit less cam. Still, I may be too high at 430/475. If you did make that much, I would have done a lot of things right.

All the best.

Just having a little fun. I expect the smallish carb, cam and heads will provide awesome low and mid-range power. That's a decent match with the build, actually. Those stock length rods leave you with rod ratio about like a stock 454 Chevy, which is not a hi-revver. If you have an auto trans...

You won't really know until it behaves itself in hot weather. Wish you the best with it.

On a budget ... 4-leaf reverse-eye springs Del-alum bushings 5/8 or 3/4 rear sway bar Cal Tracs That would be my advice for both straight line and curvy line driving.

Nice truck engine. What are the cam specs?

Oh boy! I see another "How do you get the bolt out of the front spring bushing?" story coming .... Stay tuned.

If you don't need a performance muffler, you have a wide open field. I have Flowmaster 50s, x-pipe and tri-ys. I think I'm giving up some HP, but everyone likes the sound. No drone. As I said earlier, next time I'll get something that flows a bit better.

Is your electric fuel pump up to the job? Particularly, is it mounted too high (relative to the fuel tank) and has to pull vacuum to supply fuel? As the pump heats up (from the load needed to pull fuel, then push it), it losses efficiency and the problem spirals. If your other fixes don't solve...

I guess it doesn't matter how well they flow? You have a mild combo? The whole system only flows as well as the most restrictive component. Borla and Spintech flow well. Flowmasters don't. Don't know about the others. I'll go Borla next time I need mufflers.

Personally, I've been curious what 17s up front and 16s on the rear would look like. You wanna swap those and take another pic? Prolly not, huh? I love my 16s, but will have to go 17s up front if I want a 13" rotor. I wouldn't bother, but no power brakes with Webers and I wouldn't mind a bit...

Sorry. No post.

Well, good, no misunderstanding. I was referencing the work done by others in other publications, not my own opinion or research. I should have made that clear. I don't have a dog in this fight (so to speak), just trying to provide some guidance to the original poster.

Greatly simplified, there are two schools of thought on suspensions (ignoring the more exotic options): Lots of spring, less shock and less sway-bar vs less spring, more shock and more sway bar. For our old-school rears, this would be: 1. 5-leaf springs, poly or Del-alum bushings, HD shackles...

The smaller the bore, the faster the burn. You can run higher RPMs with good efficiency and (added bonus) they will handle more compression without detonating. My advice above was for the 4.00" bore of the motor in question.