Search results

I guess what i was just kinda wondering was if i did lets just say, the 308, would that longer bore make the performance parts that i will put in the engine, more efficient? I figure the 302 stroke with performance parts is great, but then to have the 306, 308, 310 stroke would make those parts...

sorry what i forgot to specify earlier is that it will cost me the same to get a 310 as a 302 and stroking it will cost alot more than $0.00

howdy ya'll, I have just gotten to the point of my build to where i can start building an engine. I know I want to go with a 302 basis, but my question is what are the advantages and disadvantages of going with a 308 or even a 310? Should the size affect what cam I buy? I am building it from a...

so you don't think that the seals and bearings need to be replaced then? I am not worried about messing it up at all, rear ends are rather straight forward, and I have all the necessary tools.

no its just forty some odd years old and i figure its preventing future problems now is better than fixing them later.

I just ripped out the rear end from my 68 coupe, and i know that obviously i should replace fluid and bearings, but what all is involved with the rebuild of a rear end? I just want to identify what parts i need to get. p.s. i am not looking to do new gears or anything

I think it is the 13" setup, i am planning on buying it from a freind, and i know about the mustang steve brackets, but what hub/spindle do you use?

This happened to me, if i have the right interpretation of what is happening that is. Here is what to do, get your car going pretty fast in reverse, around 15-20 and then apply hard pressure on the brakes. I know it sounds weird but it works.

i heard it is just a hub and a bracket to adapt the 2000 gt brakes to the 68. is that right?

It is extremely difficult to rotate mine, though the first two or three spins were good, i have a two foot wrench on each end and its still tough. Do know what the torque specs are? Could it be doing this because i got the UCAs sandblasted?

the shaft that connects the uca to the actual body of the car. It has two zerk fittings at the ends

has anyone else had a very diffivult time fastening their UCA mounting rod to the UCA? Mine is terribly difficult and i fear i might be ripping new threads.

i am crying tears of.....i'm not quite sure but MAN that is awesome.

:jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: got any pics?

that is absolutely ridiculous, what all did you have?

well if i can't get anything out of ya'll, can you suggest any other forums i might post this thread on?

allow me to be more specific. I can spend no more than $800 on the system, but many parts i can get for wholesale price at a local shop. I don't like the droned out sound that occurs when too much bass is present. I like it loud and clear. I have all the space in my trunk, which i imagine is...

I'm not gunna lie, I thought ya'll would jump on this thread like nobody's business.

Alrighty, i am at the point now where i need to start planning and purchasing audio components. I am planning of components in the kick panels, the dash speaker, the two behind the back seat, and maybe two in the custom built console and maybe a few extra tweeters here and there. I guess i...

I am looking at insulations, think i am going with the damplifier pro, and I am wondering how many square feet i need. I plan on doing the entire inside of the car (firewall, floors, inside doors, trunk floor, inside quater panels, roof, everywhere) I thought that i heard that 160 square feet...