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Personally, I've always went by the method: If you're planning on boosting the engine, boost it a couple times, since it helps seat the rings.. However, on their site, VT outlines their best recommended method for breaking in their engines.. I wouldn't stray too far from that.. In fact...

I don't believe there is a way around it, from what I can remember.. JT

Rickey_Bobby, Believe me when I say that this is already in the planning and being carefully done... I've had the luxury of being a dumbass in the past and blow up expensive parts, just to do it again w/ something stupid... Let's say, I've done a little trial and error in my past.. I'd...

I agree w/ almost everything you're saying, but felt it necessary to add this.. In the Mustang world, the only thing I know people to steer towards, was the proven and reliable methods of making their car worthwhile, whether it be NA or FI... Whether they take the Supercharger route, or Turbo...

When you checked for vacuum leaks, how did you do so?? I assume you have a logger, or at least a way to check your Injector Duty cycle. This is one of the best ways to determine if you're over-running your fuel system. You can always check fuel pressure at the fuel rail.. Part of me...

Damn, and that's w/ 60# injectors?? What's up from that?? 72#'s?? What about fuel rail constraints, does the stocker flow enough to support those injectors?? 15psi as in, actual boost seen in the engine, or the Boost prediction of the pulley (isn't it a 16psi pulley??) If that's the...

I'm rather impressed w/ your set-up, and it seems I'm heading in a similar direction... I was wondering, is there any merit to O-ringing the blocks/heads since we intend boost, or does the MLHG do a good job of biting down?? What about your Water/Meth injection?? Does that make a big...

Thanks for the "backstage," view.. Believe it or not, since I'd had such bad luck in the past, building and racing cars, I figured I'd go a different route this time, and see how it works.. Right now, w/ the exception of my engine, interior and body, everything has been upgraded.. I went...

I don't know how many times a day I see people looking for info regarding quality aftermarket engine internals, and rarely see many answers, so I suppose I'm looking for some raw data, and personal experience.. I've got my goal set, and engine disassembly takes place over the next 2 weeks...

If you have a AFPR, you may want to give it a nudge or 2, to the positive side.. Boost is going to happen, mostly in the higher RPMs, so if you stay out of the throttle, you should be okay.. Keep the load light on the engine... It's a shame you didn't have a boost gauge w/ both...

I'd use anti-seize, just because of the heat rating, but you could use good moly-based grease.. Biggest thing though, is to make sure they're absolutely cleaned and smooth.. JT

After doing a little bit of research, since Brakes seem to go fairly quickly for me, I've found it's just better to replace rotors.. First off, part of the heat dissipation of brakes comes from the mass of the rotors (I believe it's, more mass takes longer to heat).. True, turning them...

There's a big difference adding 1 bottle of Inj. Cleaner to a 16 gallon tank, once every 3,000 miles; versus adding ounces every 200-300 miles... I believe they also add the Acetone to increase the flash point... That is all.. JT

After reading it, I think you should just "man up," and beat the sh-t out of the rotors. I'm not talking "Bang-bang." I'm talking, get a good 2-3ft swing arc, and beat the hell out of the rotors. They're $25 a piece, and are useless to you right now.. I've had some real hairy, stuck on...

Could be a bad O2 Sensor.. Most of the time I've seen a code like that, no matter what make of car, it's O2 related... I wonder if the Seafoam fouled one of the Sensors?? JT

Well, I've never removed the dogbone, so I can rule that out.. Yesterday, I removed the rear wheels, and the backspacing is spot-on on both wheels... I didn't really get to dig too deep, as to the torque boxes, and hopefully, if it doesn't rain until later today, I can check them out... 3...

Currently, I have 3.73's w/ the Eaton 31-spline LSD, T/A Diff. girdle, and all of the other suspension stuff.. I was doing some research, and I saw that some of the newer Mustangs were experiencing some of the same problems, w/ bigger than normal axle offsets from the factory. Excellent...

Sweet.. I'm going to check out Griggs/Evolution, since I've seen the MM Panhard bar already... I'm willing to bet though, that I may not be able to use the Watts.. I really have to do something about this soon since I think my pinion gear is pretty much done.. After the fluid add the...

Mine has the recessed load bolts, so I think I should be okay, but as was mentioned, the drain and fill plugs are going to be in the way I believe... Maybe not.. It may only need the torque arm removed... What are your guy's impressions of the MM Panhard bar?? Does anyone make Watts...

I've posted this on another forum, but I figured I'd give here a try.. Well, in my quest to figure out why I get such nasty drivetrain vibration, I've gone through a lot of variables, and still haven't been able to pinpoint an exact cause, unless... Last night, when I was checking out my...