They are a new compnay no longer caled Pro-M.
www.massairsystems.com
www.coolblueperformance.com
I ordered one from them, took a long time to get, but I did get it, and it works so good. They are the only "pro-m" dealer I know of.
Sounds like a normal problem to me. My 90 does the same thing. I have to crank it all the way up till the dome light comes on, and gently shut the dome light off, the my gauges stay lit. Otherwise they flicker, and are not bright enough. I gotta get around to swapping it out.
Those fans don't cover the whole radiator, and they just suck, theres your problem.
I love my Mark 8 fan. Its been realy hot and humid like where you are, here and with an intercooler in front of my A/C condensor, my rad still stays cool when I flip the fan on. Even with all the heat in the...
You are looking for something similar to this.
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/parts_gallery/turn_signal_flasher.jpg
Yours SHOULD be bright baby blue, made of plactic, and have a "nipple" on top so that it can be mounted.
Right under the Steering column. As someone mentioned before it's mounted on a rail just under the wheel. Thats where it was on my '87.
I did work on a '93 and i saw it behind the glove box. Did you drop the glovebox, or did oyu just look from underneath? It was over torwards the left of the...
There is supposed to be a binkini car wash today in warwick, which i might just stop by and check out, then maybe shop a little, and head over to sams.....Not sure yet...
I did the volute on my old blower, and never even thought about touching the rest of the blower, too much work. The volute was hard as it was because of the deep grinding they did when removeing the casting.
There is a button in the door jam that is connected to the seatbelt. If that button is sticking then they may not roll up on their own. When you open the door it should roll up.
I know on some cars you can rewind the spring, but not on mustangs, at least that I know of.
My friends car had the SAME problem. And sometimes it would start then die after a bit. It turned out to be the hall sensor in the distributor. I swapped out his for one from my spare engine, and it ran like it should. So My guess is the hall sensor in the dizzy, which would be easier to replace...
go stare at your engine for a while and figure out how to you want route all your tubing. I would do 2.5" on the hot side, and if it's twins do 2.25" for the cold side, for single do 2.5" on the hot and cold, and 3" exhaust.
You can also use brake line to feed the turbo(s) which is what I did...
Just buy your own bends, its cheaper. I got all of mine from summit. Looks like you bought an awful lot of straight pipe. I bought one of those and used maybe a foot of it.