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Mine are msd red wires. I think 50 ohms is about right for the better wires. So now what? I'm thinking I'll go back and check compression on all cylinders. Prob also re-gap my plugs as I didn't check the, when I installed

3k to 8k? I'm getting 50 ohms per foot on the three wires I checked.

I need some help. My 351 has been running rough. So I ran a cylinder balance test and found #2 cylinder is dead. Ran test 3 times same result. So I switched injector w #1 but # 2 still dead. Switched plugs, still #2 dead. Checked spark on #2 by grounding plug on block and I have spark. Tested...

I'm having a similar problem. Ran a cylinder balance test and found a dead cylinder. Now I can figure out why it's dead. Everything checks out yet it's still dead. Run that test and check codes.

i have 235/40 17 on front of my 65 with 1 inch lowering suspension. no rubbing issues.

I got the same type of strut brace as yours, but mine has a removeable monte bar. Had to modify it to fit around my mass air meter....but it had no problem missing my efi intake and dist.

I have an H-pipe on my 65 vert with dynomax mufflers. I hate a loud exhaust while cruising, so this setup if fine. its fairly loud when accelerating. I really like the sound.

update... cleaned fuel filter and carb. No more problem! Cool. thanks for the help Mike

When i bought the MAF, Pro-M tech guys said there meter has to be tuned for a specific computer. So it must mean something....how much? who knows. I have a quest in to the computer supplier to find out what i really have.

well i was wrong, its a 650 carb. Not sure if it runs rich. how can you tell? It used to run fine, so something has changed. I guess i could have a loose wire in ignition system somewhere or the float would make sense. I am running a stock ignition system. Mike

Valve springs came with the heads. As far as what do i want for power....what we all want....the most power for the least cost. Seriously though, at this point, the cam swap was such a pain that i dont think i can stomache doing it again. So assuming that the cam stays the same, seems like my...

I have a mild 302 in my 65. Eddlebrock 750 carb with mechanical fuel pump. Engine ran fine for 2 years and then noticed hesitation upon hard acceleration and when turning hard to the right...not to the left. Also notice it when driving slowly over speed bumps. Feels like fuel problem. Perhaps...

trick flow 170 cc, i think 10:1..not sure. I tried another cam from Lunati... 290/300 .544/.560 and thought it was too aggressive...didnt like the rough idle. Lunati then recomended the 272/280 for EFI apps. I like the sound of the engine much better with the new cam. When you say "small"...

cam is a lunati #61011 272/280 advertised duration Still running the 76mm throttle body, so obviously thats part of the problem. My intake is also not rated to flow enough for the engine combo(Eddlebrock performer II intake) . The recent upgrades and mods have obviously helped it a TON, but...

OK, so i have taken everyone's advice. Here's what i did -new "EFI friendly" cam....at least according to Lunati -42 lb injectors -pro-m 90mm mass air(calibrated to injectors) -fuel pressure set to 45 psi -did some minor porting between throttle body and intake. as you can see from...

Well,looks like i had the pushrod too long. It was pushing on the master and slowly increasing the pressure. Shortened the pushrod and now they work great. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. Mike

I am sure its the right size. Brakes dont start tightening down until i press the brake pedal. Its a progressive thing. Almost like they dont release fully each time i push the brake. This is a new thing. They originally worked fine (just installed system a few months ago).

I am in the middle of building a 70 mach 1. Had the original power bendix booster rebuilt and am using a 95 master. Cobra disk brakes front and rear with an adjustable proportioning valve and the factory distribution block. Car drives fine for half mile or so and then brakes start to lock up...

i finally got my throwout bearing working and releasiing properly, but still takes a lot to push it. Mine is mounted about an inch below oem. Going to try raising it to gain more leverage.

When i blew out the o-rings on my ram, it also blew out the metal capture rink in the end. This metal ring then lodged between the two moving parts of the ram....then nothing would move. I ber you blew out the throwout bearing.