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I'm wondering the same thing.. I'm currently in the process of getting boost on top of my factory blocked stroker and was wondering what a safe boost level would be knowing my block is the weak link even though I have a main girdle. DSS swears by them, saying their girdle allows stock blocks to...

It seems for every delete, you've got an addition..so my estimate is you're right around where a stock LX is(~3100-3300).

The thermostat controls the engine temp so there's no way I'm runing too cool. The fan pulls heat from the radiator/condenser/oil cooler, so I leave my fan on all the time unless I'll be on the freeway for a while....I didn't realize my 130 amp was too small until I recently put a VOM while@idle...

I suggest this as well....I'd put the rear control arms(w/spherical bearings) higher on the priority list as the side/side movement of the factory rear suspension is not acceptable by todays standards...my panhard bar was one of the best upgrades I've ever made.

I 2nd(or 3rd) the Mark VIII fan...I've had one for about 5 years, no cooling problems since, it also made my r134 converted A/C be the COLDEST I've ever felt! 2nd on the need for a larger alternator, even my 130 amp doesn't put out enough at idle to charge the battery with the fan on...

larger cams want more fuel down low, try adding a few tenths of a volt to the TPS or get a custom chip/tune. Your BAP does not need vacuum.

Sounds like it to me...

You'd better believe you can! I would ebay it with a starting bit of at least 5k, people who are going to pay $35k over sticker will gladly pay 5k or more. Obviously they have the money to waste.

They also did this price gouging with the supercharged Lightnings, 15k over sticker is what my bud was told. He bought a Chevy! I wouldn't pay over $40k, it's a nice car, but it's still a Mustang. As soon as the first few thousand people with too much money get theirs, the price will drop. It's...

I have replaced everything except the rack and I still have the ~1" play. The adjustable outer tie rods are to eliminate bump steer on lowered cars and will not help if yours aren't faulty. I have replaced both of my inner tie rods for $20 each which helped quite a bit(they were bad though). The...

Eibach drag kit is a good setup, it comes with all 4 springs and an airbag for your passenger rear. Coilovers would be better of course, Maximum Motorsports has all that you'll need as far as suspension goes. 3 way adjustable struts (90/10,80/20,70/30) with 50/50s in the rear will be fine...

You need to keep in mind that when things get warm, they'll expand. Five thousandths is not enough when cold.

You'll have no problems, I did the same with my buds car with stock torque boxes, ended up with a 12.0@115 1.61 60". My best in my car(when it was a drag setup) was 1.52. All launches were 5-6k on my buds car, off the rev limit some times in my car.Just keep an eye on your torque boxes, you'll...

While the Holly intake is one of the best, and responds well to porting, I would also say get the TFS kit as their heads are quite a bit better than the Holley and, as stated above, respond much better to porting. I 3d the track heat even though the best would be TFS heads/Holley intakes.

It should be used with 24#ers. Like stated above, that's what they came with. The computer was different, and was set using 24# injectors, but you still need your MAS calibrated to your injectors.

My bud had an 87 coupe that went 12.014@115 (me driving) with a 306, out of the box TFS heads, B cam, 1.72 rockers, port matched GT40s, 73mm MAS, 70mm TB, 24# injectors, 3550, 4.10s and slicks. Never dyno'd but guessed 330~350 FWHP.

I would get heads, TFS should be under 1k. I ran high 12s with just heads, stock intake(lower port matched), 19#ers, stock MAS/TB and low 12s when I swapped to GT40 intakes still using the 19#ers, stock MAS/TB.

What he said.

The good thing about a tweecer is that it helps more than just WOT, you can tune any part throttle/idle problems out as well. No more surging idle, no more bucking and no more burning eyeballs from the exhaust. You can see if there's any local shops that can dyno tune using your tweecer...

What is your problem, pushing the pedal down or getting it into gear. Do you know if you have a firewall adjuster?