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yeah, im about 20 also with full PI swap... somthing is wrong, very wrong.

i can think of three possible things: 1. Throwout bearing siezed, possible clutch set to tight not releaseing TOB from pressure plate. 2. input shaft bearing in the tranny. 3. Pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. does the noise change when the clutch is in or out?

I have a ford racing T/B by the way ,so it may work different. What i DID 1. disconnect IAC valve 2. lower the setscrew for the idle on the throttle body until the engine dies, ( was about 550 rpm for me) 3. Reconnect IAC valve, restart car and give it a try.

TPS voltage didnt matter to me, mine was hanging really bad when i se the idle to 800 rpm with the IAC dissconnected. I read a post from Randy Stinchcomb stating that with the iac disconnected the car should just die or barely run ( ~550 rpm for me) I ignored TPS voltage and set the trottle...

the one pictured is the same as the 94-98 but instead of the ashtray it has a cup holder. they still suck big time and you will slam your drink into hte back seat when you go to shift on a manual. the 01-04 console puts the cup more out of the way, but i dont know if it will fit 100% without...

Mine Did it to me also today, turned off the pump, ran it, bled the valve, then wore lots of gas LOL however, my "WIX" filter the prior owner used musta been so gummed up, feels like a whole new beast!

my new Kiesler auto T-45R doesnt skip a beat in reverse, man do i not miss a grinding reverse!

here is the one i have, and used prior. gets the job done :) http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=M6375D46+01

specs are right... 16 lbs for a billet flywheel seems light though? fidanza aluminum's are 12.5 or so, and stock is like 22-24lbs. if its thinner than you will need a firewall adjuster and metal quadrant to be able to set the clutch properly.

I have one! one thing i really like about it, it goes into reverse the first time, everytime! shifts smoother than my old one after about 300 miles. also came with a pretty nice shifter My only complaint is that the core charge has taken a bit over 30 days to get back, really could use...

From what several local mustang builders that I trust their word have told me, Yes, It can. How many miles are on your car? over 100k then i would surely spend a quick $50 and try it, as they do wear, melt housings, and stretch. The cable if binding has a higher chance of causing the the...

so you have replaced the cable before, recently? if so then stiff clutch could be related to a worn pivot ball, or the clutch fork socket. heat soak could melt the cable housing though, thats another possiblity. on the T-45, the pivot ball is like $20 from ford and can be replaced once the...

get a new FORD oem cable, and an aftermarket firewall adjuster and quadrant. if it was the tranny's synchros I would probably only be between 2 gears, not all shifts.

here is a thread dedicated to the t45R on another forum, has a lot more info about it there. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/79792-new-prototype-t45-tranny-update.html I sent Richard from keisler Auto a P.M. to chime in here when he gets a chance.

keep reseting the adjustment, you can pop the car in neutral and do it at the light if needed. sounds like its slipping teeth to me.

http://keislerauto.com/ t-45R for $895 with a short throw shifter and upgraded synchros. also no more pain in the butt reverse, goes in the first time, everytime. there is a $300 core charge untill yours is returned though. Ive had mine in for a few weeks now, best decision i ever made.

change/ check your fluid for starters if old. do you still have the stock clutch quadrant? mine stripped out and wasnt allowing the cable to tighten up all the way. firewall adjuster and metal quadrant fixed that.

dallas speedcal maybe, im not sure, another reason i just got a replacement t45(R)

i bought a T-45R from www.keislerauto.com $895+ 300 core charge, and it came with a new short throw shifter. would love to have a t-56 myself, and smartparts auto has a great price, but i just went for the t-45R as my car is staying N/A

Randy, would a tensioner sqeal the entire time the car is running or only at startup? My car randomly squeals for a breif 1-2 seconds after the crack intially cranks itself, im thinking maybe the tensioner or starter. changing the belt made no difference in sound?.?.