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You might try the guys dealing with the newer stangs. This has got to be some thing that has happened to a few guys.

Might try not oiling until after the test. The sensors may be covered in oil and need cleaning or replaced. I was watching a show about k+n filters and they mentioned some thing about that problem. I think they reformulated the oil the avoid contamination and instruct to lightly oil the filter...

On newer cars I heard that the oil can contaminate the sensors on the computer cars. I think K+N has oil and intructions to lightly oil the filters to avoid this issue.

Those are cool cars. They are heavier than most stangs. Most of them seem to have FE engines because of there size. All old cars look for rust and collision damage, missing trim. Engine and trans can be easily repaired or replaced.

Did the battery acid turn your frame and radiator core into swiss cheese or just surface rust? While you are doing the floors you might think about the new one piece seat pans. I used one since my seat pans were in bad shape. Cost about the same as two new pans, fit with out to much trouble...

If the heads are working I would just leave them alone. If you want more performance later, save up for a crate engine or the parts to build up your own engine. A 350hp plus engne will need the bottom end beefed up if you want it to last. I would keep the cam under .500 lift on a stock engine...

All the left wing, tree hugging, guys down there would hang you for that avitar. Got to be animal cruelty.LOL

Looking good. I love all motivation on the walls.

Having a place you can work on it is a big help. Most of the items you talked about can be installed latter. Thats why I thought in your case, a solid body and nice paint #1. You may have a buddies house you can do some of the other changes at. I can't blame the landlord to much. They don't want...

Royal purple I see is now making a break in oil. Any additive should be for break in use. Several out there. Also prime your oiling system before you start it up. It can take many precious seconds for oil to start getting around the engine. If you can't wait put a space heater near the pan for...

He must be scared.:shrug:

Like hungrymonkey said a quality redo of your heads will cost money. You will need hardened valve seats, at least the exhaust valves in stainless, valve and seat grinding, seals, more than likely valve guides. It would be really nice to install screw in studs to make it easier to set up. Local...

I've used the por15 products. It's availible here local and the eastwood isn't. Apply per instructions, after dry mark your weld areas and grind a 1/4" or so larger than holes. The exposed areas can then have the por15 primer applied. Paint as you want later. I never had it burn out of control...

I'm in about the same spot as you and things have changed since the days of driveway paint jobs. Every tech guy and paint counter gives me different oppinions. So i'll give you another one. Been asking lots of questions reading magazine articles and really watching the car tv shows. Not just...

I assume that you have no skills to work on a car. Then the most complete ready set up car the way you want it is the way to go. A quality paint job on a solid car can be the most expensive thing. I don't think it would be out line to say a car needing minor body work can set you back at least 5...

Hungrymonkey what city are you in? Your avitar makes me think your my kind of guy.

Man I must be getting old. They used to call that "hot rodding". LOL

The boss heads will need pushrods, intake manifold, pistons, gaskets, valve covers. Unless you want a boss engine, sell the heads on ebay, use the money for windsor heads.

The one that was stock was a cast iron unit low rise DP for 2V heads. Weiand and Edelbrock make aluminum DP for 2v cleveland style heads.

Yes.