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I don't think your going to get a 9" wheel in the front without some mods. I have 17x8s and the are super close inside and out. This subject comes up a lot. Do a search for Dodgestangs wheel chart. He had pretty much all the bases covered on what would fit on these cars.

I swapped my c-4 for an AOD. Before I was getting around 14mpg, now get 22 at 70-75 mph. 3.25 gears in rear.

Factory 17x8s on the front w 1" spacers. 245/45/17s. Repro 17x 9s on the rear w 275/40/17s. No spacer. You'd probably want to run a 1" spacer in the rear w factory 17x8s.

I have them on my car. Fac

Shorties on mine.

Mine was getting about 14 mpg before, and last I checked got 21 averaging about 75 on the highway. The fuel economy jump was great, but overall made the car much nicer to drive at highway speeds.

My car with 3.25s is almost too high geared. It does cruise really well on the interstate though, keeping up with 80 mph traffic is no problem. It got 21 mpg on a recent trip, I was very happy with that. Keep in mind most fox body mustangs were 3.08 geared with an AOD.

Northern b2c

I have a northern in my 68 that I ordered from a local shop. They may not carry it in summit but you can find it on their website. I also bought a dual fan/ shroud kit from them.

Dont know, kinda hoping to get some opinions on it, i dont think ive ever seen a sanden with the additional idler...

I just think its strange that I dont see the extra idler much, especially with the Sanden. Maybe they all dont do it as bad or people just put up with it, but mine is very annoying. Gonna get one ordered.

I have an annoying belt vibration off idle with the a/c on, then it goes away. Most of the sanden conversions i have seen do not have the extra fixed idler, only the adjustment idler like I am running. Do i need to order the fixed idler to get rid of it, or is there another way? Thanks...

Could be a shock, and it might not be noticably bent. I was driving my moms 84 1/2 mustang once and pulled out of a steep driveway. The Drivers side strut compressed almost all of the way down, and never came back up. Had to drive it home like that and explain what happened. Needless to say...

Cutting coils will raise the spring rate. i cut one full coil off my stock 68 springs (pics are in link in my sig) and lowered it about 1.5- 2 inches.

I have the hedman shorties too. Nice headers, and no worries about clearance.

As long as you use the lower control arm setup with the same year strut rod, you should be fine. My car had a run in with a telephone pole a long time ago, and the driver side was replaced with stuff off of a 67. The other side was factory 68. No problem with alignment or fit, I didnt know...

3M Self-leveling seam sealer #8307, its a two part that has to be applied with a two part gun. There are probably other types available, from places like eastwoods, ect.

They make an actual self leveling sealant for that purpose. Probably have to get it a a body shop supply store. I have used urethane caulk before, but its a pain to get completely smooth.

I swapped my car to big block hoses, they route under the crossmember rather than beside the exhaust like a 302/289. Might fix your routing issue if header contact is the problem.

I bought grab-a track stuff for my car. Seems to be decent stuff for the money, and havent had any problems. I dont put a lot of miles on it, but havent had any problems.