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Thanks for the advice. The spindles came with calipers, splash shields and brake lines, none of which I would trust but are good for a reference. Glad to hear that manual master will still work. As for the car, it was completely picked through; the spindles were loose in the trunk like...

Awhile back while digging for something else in a boneyard, I found a set of '70 disc spindles in the trunk of a 70 Cougar. I want to replace the manual drums on the front of my Mustang with these disc spindles. I have a dual master cylinder. Questions for those that have collectively done...

The donor was pretty well gutted, but I'll check it out when I get back that way.... does it matter if I don't go Power brakes, and that it's a stickshift? not terribly interested in keeping it 'stock' but good reminder on the distribution block

I was rummaging around a junkyard to find a new ignition switch when I found a '70 Cougar. After I freed it of the switch, I came across a set of disc brake spindles - in the trunk. There was only the spindle, splash guards and caliper. First obvious question is, can I use these '70 Cougar...

Lesson in Aftermarket parts ...or when turning lock-to-lock backing into a parking spot at the local cruise, which is partially why I'm in this predicament. Well, I finally got it running. The timespan mostly involved overcoming the notion of screwing it up more (aka I was 'chicken-sh!+')...

My assembly is exactly like yours. the hi-pressure line on the top of the valve body comes out of the block straight at the pitman before turning to wrap behind. The arm doesn't even get to about half of its travel in the direction of the hose before it contacts it. I think they left too much...

They pretty much are where you show in the pics. I can coax them into position without much concern for crimping. However, the pressure hose, where it turns to drop behind the valve, is getting pinched by the pitman arm when turning the wheel left. I wish my chassis was as clean as yours...

So I blew out the PS high pressure hose in the Mach 1. The homemade rigging (last owner was an elevator guy; has access to hydraulic fittings and such) finally scraped the chassis once too many. I got a set of proper hoses from NPD. After considerable cursing and gnashing of teeth (and ten...

Again, I'll start with a "Thanks" 2+2, what's the brand of the tape you talked about? Is it the same as BarnStang's "friction tape"? I saw that at AutoZone, I thought it was some sort of handgrip tape. I also saw the Super88 - in my toolbox. It's the gooey plastic stuff. Higher quality...

That is a good piece of advice. I was actually wondering how plain ol' electrical tape could possible last so long without melting. I'd never get this at shows..... I hope to last long enough to pass it on to another neobie.....+1 Hey, I got this sheet of 1/4' ply not doing anthing. I could...

I'm halfway across the firewall, and about to start peeling tape from the bundle leading from the upper mid firewall to the regulator/solenoid/battery area. To this point it's been easy because the burning wire has melted it. What wire I can see to this point is bare from the ignition switch...

Thanks for the link. I was scratching my head, as there is a difference between the switches themselves. I finally got back to it pulled the cover and looked at the switch. Damn. The ignition wire (the "on" position, keeps spark running, as opposed to the starter) is melted and bare, from...

Wires on both sides are toast. there just isn't one of those black sleeves to melt around it. I haven't traced back very far, I'd get too depressed. I also have seen prices for the underdash harness repro. However, it looks to be wired to actual connectors, where a Painless Wiring full-car...

Found the problem I took the steering wheel bracket off. I found the source of the smoke: This is the 8-pin harness from the steering column. It's like a taco Bell commercial Crunchy, Melty hot and fried. To the left is are the wires leading to the ignition switch. Among them is a big...

Driving down the road this morning, all my lights all went dim, followed by a bunch of smoke from under the dash. Pulled over and checked. the new wires for the temp. gauge I put in wasn't involved (had it out twice since then), so I went to head home.... The starter barely ran, it almost...

I fell victim to that... A, ahem, 'gremlin' (not an AMC) switched up a couple of plug wires on the distributor. 1, 4 and maybe 6. Dunno.. but my car was doing the exact thing you're describing. For me, I thought the new pulleys I had installed were throwing the engine balance way off, it was...

I would not self-inflict myself. Besides, I would not show off this masterpeice of peicemeal if it were mine. I'm the new owner trying to sort it out. Hell, I'm starting to doubt the crank pulley! I figured the pulley was wrong, but it still lines up on the back crank pulley. As for the...

1: Known issue. note the plate bolts at one point on the water pump. I have the correct plate, it doesn't line up with anything. 2: Saw your thread, went to MustangsUnl. Saw mine listed for 351C, and your more open one, for a 351C, but by a performance part maker. 3: I figured. However, the...

It looks as if I correct the PS pump mount (I have the correct bracket), all of the accessories would line up! I know that's wrong. the Alternator looked fine -! The fan-alt-crank is on the rearmost pulley. Can't get the PS behind it. Now we're into a big 'ol mess. I know that the Cleveland...

My current setup Here are some pics of the current setup: Is this properly routed? Note the PS pump pulley, the engineered bracket from a Windsor, and the socket in line behind the spacer in question. I could live with this, especially since I have for two years since I got it. I just...