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Just as an FYI--here are some pictures of the car before I tore it down, to give you an idea of what it looks like fully assembled:

Still for sale . . . just sitting in my garage, taking up space . . .

No, I still have it

Check out Blue Oval Industries and/or PPI https://www.blueovalindustries.com/1979-1993-mustang.html http://www.performancepartsinc.com/

Hi, All-- I am selling my 1970 Mustang Coupe Project; I've had it since June of 2007, originally converted it to an Explorer 5.0L with EFI, then pulled that out and started working on converting it to a BBF, but changed my mind, and decided to go with a Coyote. However, I haven't touched it in...

Sorry to revive this thread from the dead; I've got an 89 5.0L LX Sedan, "Deep Shadow Blue", code P40E, one of 938 . . . though not nearly as rare as a BUNCH of others on here . . .

If that block has the extra thick cylinder walls, and can be bored to 4.125, I'd go for it! Chances are you probably wouldn't be doing another overbore on it anyway, since it will likely last for well over 50K miles, possibly 100K, and if it wears out by then, you probably would want to buy a...

Man, you do such awesome work--I always look forward to your posts in this thread! Please tell me that the export brace you have IS NOT the one with the 16-gauge sheetmetal for the shock towers . . . the people who came up with that design just plain don't get it--it has to have STRENGTH...

I agree 100%--nobody in their right mind would warranty a race engine . . . but I don't think the original poster was referring to a race engine--I think it was a crate engine, which just about anybody out there who produces them, DOES warranty . . .

You might want to measure the cylinder walls on that block before you buy pistons . . . in many (or maybe even most) cases, the pistons themselves are the specifiied bore diameter, and you will want to make sure that the pistons you buy have the correct clearance, or you'll have to have it...

Yep, completely happy with it; there are ways to make it stronger, too; places like clickclickracing.com has information, the Thunderbird and Cougar Club of America (TCCoA) have a lot of info in their tech sections, and a guy who regularly posts in both built a custom converter for me--dirtyd0g...

Yes, I'm using that transmission in my '70, and did so without any tunnel work. There is an article where another person installed it into his '65 convertible wtihout any cutting: Project Overdrive

I tried to edit and state the point I was trying to make, and I can see from your quote that I missed editing some of the text What I intended to say was that when racing machine shops either reduce the size of the the counterweights or internally balance the engine using their original size...

Yep, and you can see this same effect if you have an engine on a stand, and change from a manual flywheel to an automatic flexplate, or vice versa . . . we did that in High School in Auto Shop class.

You can keep on believing that, but it doesn't make it a fact :D Have you ever seen how engines are balanced? When counterweights are cut down in size, something has to make up for the loss in weight. Racing machine shops regularly do this for a variety of reasons including providing more...

I agree about a fan controller, but I personally used a SPAL, and it works flawlessly with dual GM LS1 F-body fans on a Fox-body crossflow radiator in my '70 Mustang. I am using a GM temperature switch (supplied by SPAL) that signals the controller to turn on the first fan at a certain temp...

I think this package would be better suited for the street than the Performer RPM package, and it's got better heads than stock or the Windsor Jr's. Edelbrock.com - Performer Power Packages - Idle to 5500 RPM It comes with everything you need--heads, cam, lifters, intake and carburetor...

I am switching over to an 8.8 out of a '94 Mustang, and adding new springs. I started researching the best traction control devices out there, and came up with two--Cal-Trac's and Slide-A-Links. I considered the Traction Masters until someone told me they blew out the bushings after taking...

Thanks for the correction on the crank, D.Hearne--I was a little fuzzy myself on the changeover. Kilgorq--I stand by my statements regarding the fact that reducing the crankshaft counterweights will NOT allow an engine to rev faster. To help you better understand, as I mentioned before...

All the research I've done over the years indicates that the 69-70 blocks were 9.48", and all later blocks were 9.503