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i did a few searches for this, i need to know what size the bolts are for the rear fold down seat frame, i somehow lost mine so i need to buy some.

ah, i couldnt tell from the previuse picktures about the airbag, and floor mats, mine came with the front emblem being a cobra, thats actualy how my GF ended up spotting the car and ended up buying it. also my front calipers were painted to match the car with black lettering

nice find, looks just like mine when i bought it last year. however i do find if kind of odd that you only have the intake and side markers that would indicate cobra. mine says cobra just about everywhere you look ( the front emblem, floor mats, steering wheel, and brake calipers)

dosent that qualify as a lemon? also some, and i stress the some. dealerships have a 3 days no questions asked policy, that you can just return the vehicle, i dont know if your past 3 days yet though. and if they are nice enough they will do it a few days later as well

college degree + job = many motors :P

good sticky tires will help alot with that, also looking into a torque arm and panhard bar combo would be a good idea as it cleans up alot of the sloppy mess that ford made with there 4 link design. the torque arm and panhard bar might not help directly with wheel spin but will help out with...

you probably dont need it, but it would give a nice piece of info on what bigger headers can do for larger displacement engines.

it could be that there is to much oil pressure going to the turbo, and its pushing oil past the seals. also the oil pressure being to high will cause the turbo to act sluggish. just my guess

the thing i dont like about blowers personaly is that it takes power to make power. 500 at the wheels with 15% powertrain loss is 575 at the crank. add in what the blower takes to turn and your probably looking at over 650 hp total power or more

i dont know why you guys dont believe me that my spout connector happens to be in the fender. cause it is. i just went out and adjusted my timing and set it to 14 btdc. my spout only has like and inch or two of wire connecting it to the main wiring harness inside the fender wall . i...

yea my spout is in the fender wall. it looks like its taped to a larger wiring harness. suck. so what im looking at is timing mark then, but it seems kind of odd it would read 30. unless its pulling timing at idle with the spout in any tips for removing the fender, unless i get lucky...

i have a timing light, thats how i saw the 30 with the car on, also my spout connector is burried in my passanger fender wall, is there an easy way to get it out, like is it on a single cord or is it attached to something else. and is the timing mark the small pointer that hangs over...

i just completed my track heat manifold install and i need some help with the timing. it seems the timing mark, unless im looking at the wrong things. is a PITA to get to and see well. also it looks like the timing reads 30 and i thought it was supposed to be 10. ive never done timing...

so i randomly decided to start putting on my trick flow track heat manifolds. i just got the upper off and started working on the lower, injectors and such. im wondering if anyone has any tips or knows of anything else that can be done or deleted before i get around to putting it all back...

350-400 is always better, if you could point me in the direction of finding decent prices on t3 turbos it would be great. im having a hard time finding a decent source for them. ill more than likly get a maf/injectors and fuel pump because a few options opened up for me and should free up...

i actualy do not have my stock headers as i bought the car with bbk long tubes on it already. i only plan on running around 5 psi of boost without a tune, and ive seen people posting around 330 hp and 380 tq with a rear mounted system. also if i can keep it around 350 hp i should be fine...

i read that thread the other day, and it seems that it worked out pretty well for him. im currently in college so doing this as cheaply is possable is part of the reason for this as i do not want to replace my headers and such. also it may not be the most efficiant way of doing turbos but...

im aware of the awkwardness of the situation, but for my application/budget/room and space/ease of install, and so on and on i will probably go this route. for the 14b's they are cheap and easy to get, as well boosting in the 5-10 psi range and are about the same size as the stock mufflers...

so after a long debate about what kind of FI to use i ran into an add for sts turbos, after reading a bunch about rear mount turbos i decided i am going to give this a shot in a true DIY fasion. However i am currently in the planning stages and have run into a few problems that research has...

i wasnt realy going for a big improvment in soundstage but rather working with what i had. also aiming the speakers would have been rather difficult due to the fact that i only own a dewalt cutout tool. the speakers do however have adjustable caps on the tweeter to help project the sound...