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Thanks guys

my bad... let me make it simple im pretty sure the ball joint fell apart. part of the ball joint is attached to the spindle the other part is still in the lower control arm. can i just buy a replacement ball joint and have it pressed into the control arm?

upon further inspection the balljoint it self just fell appart the bottom part of the balljoint is still in the control arm. It failed due to lack of maintenance. Thanks for the info guys

well i guess that pretty much answers my question seeing as the ball join is still attached to the spindle and theres nothing but a hole in the control arm

ok my cars driver side ball joint fell appart the other day when i got to work and when i say fell appart i mean it came completely out of the control arm. ok now my question is my haynes manual says i have to replace the entire control arm but short of the junk yard no one carries a stock...

J why u always treating me like I don't know anything? I know how to set timing and yes I have and used a timing light. Oddly enough my car won't run at 10-14* I just wanted to know if there was a way to know exactly where it needs to be set

im just wondering how do you know where to set your timing or do you just set it by how the engine runs? when i assembled my engine i didnt use a degree wheel or anything i just lined the dots up and using a timing light its set somewhere in the neighborhood of 18 degrees. i just wanna know if...

the windsor jr heads can be made emissions legal with a little help from a machine shop so they still have all the egr ports and stuff and i didnt have the bushing that threaded into the head and the one off the stock heads wouldnt come out so i got a heli coil that fit it and some how the 2...

larry me an you pretty much did the same thing last weekend... and 2000xp8 i put the engine together about 3 months ago my alternator bracket fell off i was like half mile from the house and it ran hot getting there i immagine that had something to do with the demise of the head gasket...

ok guys got to working on the car saturday. i put a new fuel pump i oppted to upgrade to the walbro 255 big supprise it didnt fix anything... i started pulling plug wires one a time and found that cylinders 1,2, and 3 were dead. moved on to the compression test all cylinders tested 190-195 psi...

dont i feel like an idiot lol... thanks for all the info ill probably b going to the shop to replace the fuel pump and see what else i cant get figured out tomorrow after work ill keep you posted

alright with that said my buddy is a mechanic and is being nice enought to let me use his tools i used his snap on scan tool and when i do the koer test the first thing is does is give me a code 4 any clue as to what that means?

ok cool so some new issues popped up after i did the fuel pressure test last night i went to leave my buddys shop and started down the road and it started skipping constantly as if several cylinders werent firing i didnt mess with anything or unplug anything that would cause it to do that and it...

i did the fuel pressure test again on the off chance that my gauge was bad the preassure holds fine at idle when running but as soon as you turn the car off it drops off to about 9 psi which would tell me its either the check valve in fuel pump or the regulator so i clamped off the return line...

actually the problem more or less goes away when the car is warm and cruising down the road its wors when its first started when its cold or has sat for a few hours. ill change my signature later but for now it has bbk ssi intake 24# ford racing injectors, C&L maf and power pipe, trickflow stage...

ok guys ive been driving my 89 mustang for several years now its got a cam heads intake exhaust and all the supporting goodies. its been running like crap for about the last month and im at a loss. at first i thought it was running lean now i think its running extremely rich or atleast it smells...

well my car is not quite stock any more i understand the egr thing because well i did away with the egr and smog system... i know the air/fuel ratio gauge is supposed to jump around but mine for the most part isnt doing anything it usually works when you first start the car but shortly there...

i need help my 89 mustang is running extremely lean i pulled the codes and got 67 and 33 i havent had a chance to do the koer test i ran out of time. ive replaced the o2 sensors, maf sensor, cleaned the k&n filter, and checked for vacuum leaks. im going to test the fuel pressure tomorrow morning...

thanks for all the information... i did away with the egr and thermactic air system long ago and the car and temp outside was cold so i that explanes the majority of the codes

my 89 gt started running lean according to my air fuel ratio gauge so i pulled the codes koeo gave me a code 11, koer gave me codes 12, 21, 33, 44, and 94 all of which i understand and can explain why except code 12 can anyone give me further explanation into code 12? thanks guys