Search results

def. think you should go with more gear. 3.73 would be good with a t5 or t5z with reg overdrive gear. i got a g-force t5 with .58 and run a 3.89. it worked out great, at about 65mph i'm turning about 2k. personally i do not like the ratios avail in the TKo and that along with the fitment...

basically the main difference that i can tell from holley's website info is that the 80450 is calibrated more for economy and the 80457 has the( “Next Gen” needle & seat design eliminates the need for external float level adjustment) you can change parts from one to the other. it would appear...

just a quick update, i 've put about 30miles on it and so far all is good. it really engages and operates very smoothly. very happy with the conversion thus far. can't wait to get my 500+ miles on it so i can really see what its got.

A G-force T5 can handle anything a 5.0 could throw at it. you've got a lot of options, being that your car is a 67 you've got a bit more room than my 65 so you could easily put a tko500 or 600 in there. AOD or 4r70w. but if your 5.0 is NA a t5z will do just fine.

sorry, been away for a while. the pedal is a bit hard, not too bad though. its basically due to lack of leverage. i had to connect the master about 1 inch lower than the original location. i've driven cars that are alot worse. it is a ford racing bellhousing which is made by mcleod. i don't...

tough call, but the programmer is more fun. separate they do about the same for performance. but together is where you'll get the best results. i'd say it all depends on what CAI you want to get. if it'll run without a programmer get the intake first. if not get the programmer first. imho, the...

if the car started and ran fine when its warmer out, then i suggest you adjust your carb. it may only require a choke adjustment. but it could require a richening of the idle mixture due to the colder air. by keeping the rpms up, you allowed the engine to warm up enough that it would run...

i have an Airaid CAI and ran it without a tune for about 2 years. its the same as the Roush. it was a noticeable improvement over stock. i now have a diablosport airaid tune and its a huge improvement over stock.

yes...and my point is if you get the right tools and do a good job you don't need to solder a crimp connector.

soldering is great for permanent connections. but the weatherpack connectors are great for any time i need to make a harness that connects to items i may have to remove at some time, and believe me that's often. i got the kit from jegs, the crimper tool i bought a long time ago from parts...

i can say with 100% certainty it will not peg and stay there and it will go all the way around. mine did it last night when i was going 30mph, it went crazy.

i'd like to know where this sensor is too, since i think i will be needing a new one. last night my speedo went crazy. it should be in the tailshaft. i'm going to take a look tonight and i'll post up if i find anything out.

save your money valley pro setup is junk and is not worth it. KAM performance makes a better one when used with the main bearing cap girdle. but i question the need for it on any 302. the best it will do is hold all your junk together when the stock block splits.

all depends on your abilities and patience. you could graft the 95 to the 65. i've seen it done with a fox body. i would imagine it would only be worth it if the sheet metal of the 65 was in need of replacement anyway.

really cool build. too bad you're not gonna debut it at SEMA next week. i would love to get an up close look at it and i thought that is where they are having a competition to get your car in GT2. i like how your build is not overkill but has all the goodies to make a great driver and awesome...

2 5/8" fits best. i made a plate from aluminum and fit the gauges in it then screwed that to the rally pack housing. here is an old thread that i posted with some pics of it: http://forums.stangnet.com/501849-its-time-booooost.html

i'm using the FRPP roller tie-bar lifters. very good part for the price. it works out to be about the same cost as if you did the dogbone conversion and won't compromise the block by having to drill the mounting holes for the dogbone.

i'm not sure if they'l bolt right up to a stock 8". i got a 9" new from KAM Performance and he built it with the ends to be used with the exploder brakes. pretty sure the housing ends are different than the stock 8". the kit specs. are on provided on the FRPP link i put in a previous post. i'd...

i used lokar cables, you might be able to reuse the existing cables with the use of the clevis adaptors, but i am changing to a floor mounted ebrake so i elected to change the cables. honestly there probably are stainless flex lines, i have a few extras from the front and all i need is a 10mm...

are you running drums in the rear? if so its worth it to slap them on, but you'll hafta change a few things. the parking brake is different so at the very least you'll need need the clevis adaptor kit. and you'll need a proportioning valve if you don' have one already. i thought about using...