i know there is a swap for the tail shafts in the t45's for mechanical to electric speedos. im pretty sure the t45 and 3650 ar both 10 splined. not 100% though.
on my mostly stock rear suspension setup from 97 I cut 2.0x with them (minus replacement shocks and flsfc). As for handling they did just fine in the corners after i did more suspension work. I auto-crossed with them once and was able to beat a 2004-ish wrx by a quarter of a second :D
only bad...
if your engines were running at 100% efficiency (N/A of course) the most cfm we will need at 6000 rpm is around 480-500. When I was looking up the flow charts for the aftermarket plenums and tb, all of them flow over 500+ (besides C&L...) I think this is why the 70mm vs 75mm makes no difference...
they wont bounce if you update your struts, when ford designed the mustangs suspension they generally shot for a hair under critically damped systems.
Long story short this is c^2=4km (critically damped) c being your damping coefficient, k being the spring rate and m being the mass of the...
I have the wiring diagrams for the mach systems if you are interested...
I think I attached them... There is one more, but i can only attach two.
:nice:
moving the crank around during install. I held the position on the cam to gear by zip tieing it. I forgot the final check of making sure the two cams where synced together. It was late in the night, i spent a lot of time getting the header bolts back on (with long tubes). Being 180 degrees off...
I just finished mine too, runs great (one cam off by 180 degrees), good to hear you have it running nicely, make sure to run 93 in it if you have no tune yet, high compression (10.5:1) and 87 without a tune will be iffy.
i heard that mgw was awesome, but i only have experience with PRO 5.0 and the stock one (on a t-45, but I'm sure they don't change that much in feel)
The PRO 5.0 was great over stock, i love the notchy feel, its like a race car :) the throw is short enough. I think what ever shifter you get...
i want to, but im straped for cash right now, might be a while before i can. I have two tunes right now, a 93 and 87 on my sniper so i can cheap out on gas, lol. It pulls so hard through 1st its scary, i can't imagine how it would be with my 2.73's replaced with some 4.1's :)
I can't wait to...
found the engine problem, and the transmission problem was becuase of the engine shaking becuase that stopped as well.
I had the passenger cam off by 180 degrees, i feel stupid now. but its back together and running like a champ! she pulls very well in the upper rpms now. :)
sounds great, just fixed mine up tonight, i did the swap last weekend, but it turns out that i had one cam 180 degrees off... opps, that would explain the rough idle. I was surprised it ran at all...
She pulls like a mo-trucker, P&P PI heads ftw :)
yea, your right, ok lets see...
A little while ago I installed a pair of PI heads, intake and cams everything went well untill start up. First started up and it vibrated like crazy, we found that the harmonic balancer was damaged in the installation process (my fault)... I bought a new one...
Not getting too many reponses on mustangforums.com so i decided to ask over here on stangnet, hope you guys and gals can help me out, i'm running out of ideas...
http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-general-discussion/531372-after-pi-swap-low-power-and-trans-knock.html
i recently decided to...
i researched this a while ago when doing my headers, the wrap is not a good idea. It will hold in moisture when not in use, and with hold water when hitting puddles. oxfordgt knows whats what.