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yeah, i've seen those on charter busses before. but you could buy 2 t5s for less than a gear vendor overdrive would cost you.

once you get the tick fixed, you might try vacuum tuning your idle mixture. i'll bet you wind up with 20"s of vacuum.

you might also want to check the float level. if it is set a little bit too lean - that could cause surging, as the intermediate jet alternates between lean/correct mixture during light load/high vacuum situations. When you step on it - the accelerator pump gives it a shot of gas, vacuum...

:jaw:damn! this is the worst hijacking of a thread i've ever seen! it's a good thing you guys are right. the shame of it is, a regular working stiff can't hardly afford to buy the good stuff these days. thank God for craig's list! sedgewic: sounds like you might want to check the gap...

i bought a pair of sub-frame connectors thru ebay a couple weeks before christmas. the price was right, quality what i expected, delivery was prompt, but the template was missing. they said they would send me a replacment, but i have not recieved it as of 12-28.

i saw this for $140 on ebay. has anybody tried it? looks pretty cool to me for the price. what do you guys think? Professional Products Online The new Powerfire Ignition System represents the latest state-of-the-art technology in ignitions. Look at this list of terrific features...

i saw this for $140 on ebay. has anybody tried it? looks pretty cool to me for the price. what do you guys think? Professional Products Online The new Powerfire Ignition System represents the latest state-of-the-art technology in ignitions. Look at this list of terrific features...

realistically speaking - you'll get alot more bang for the buck out of a t5. all those high end parts you mentioned will get you slightly more improvment over less expensive handling mods, but most of the benefit would mostly be noticed at the track. whereas the t5 benefit is Ginormous, and...

`cool. i'd like to see that. i already have a non-adjustable rear swaybar ($50 still in the package off craigslist). i'll swap the front swaybar later if it needs it. i'm ordering the shocks today, and subframe connectors next paycheck. my brother has access to a car lift when its time to...

sweeet! pragmatism works every time! (i'm building this thing mostly just to wring it out, but it spends plenty of time bumpin' around town with passengers in the back) being a pragmatist myself....i'm going to try sticking with the stock front swaybar for now, so maybe i'll go with gas...

hey s-car-go, whats the story on those sub-frames? i havent bought mine yet (next paycheck probably), thinking about going with laurel mountain's. any advice?

sounds like your set-up is pretty close to what i have in the works zookeeper,... what are you calling "sane speeds", and at what point does that setup get 'unlivable'? i'm also curious as to how much harder i'll be able to hit the corner after the uca drop? (compared to before)

sounds great woodsnake. i'm leaning towards a change to magna flows - the flowmaster drone is wearing me out

i suspect you are right... i'm going to put the leafs on 1st, then set the weight back on it, and try to determine how much coil spring to remove if any. i've read that a 1" uca drop nets @ 5/8" lower stance. that may be ok...a slight rake looks pretty cool. Bocksta's '66 looks badass! if...

sound like a consensus for the most part... i'm a little confused now about my leaf springs now....they are definitly a mid-eye type, but what do you mean by 4.5? ... i got'em off craigslist in like-new condition - mostly because the old ones are so worn out that it looks live i have a...

lets see if you guys can steer me in the right direction, i am in the process of rounding up parts for a suspension upgrade on my 68 convertible & trying to decide which brand of shocks to buy. the brands i am considering are: kyb gas-adjust koni edelbrock a little background on my...

if that doesn't get it, you might want to check out the coil. a tired coil may run ok until it gets hot, then start acting similar to what you describe.

sounds like you might want to make sure the amp is wired to a switched power source. if its wired strait to the battery, that may be causing your problem.

whatever proffessor dickweed. nobody asked for your homespun advice on clutch adjustment. this thread is called "opinions with tranny/gear ratio". that is why people are here, putting thier 2cents in about the pros and cons of z-trans w/3.55 gears vs. a TKO for 66fstbk88's consideration...