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You shouldn't need a tune with your mods. It looks like you have a real good combo going on there.

What cam are you running? Nonetheless, good numbers. As far as your previous question, 12's are definitely a possibility. A good 60' time will get you close and the heads and intake should be good for a few tenths. Keep us posted.

Those are impressive numbers for stock heads and intake.

Check the bell housing bolt pattern. Early small blocks had the 5 bolt bell housing and will not bolt up.

I have 3.73's on my DD and love them. I regularly cruise on the interstate at 70-75 and don't have any regrets.

Thanks for the reply. I have decided to pass on them and keep looking for 26" slicks.

I have found a good deal on a set of slicks. I am planning on mounting them on a set of 10 holes. Will this combination fit without extreme measures on a '92 GT? I realize that a 26" slick is a better fit but at the price, the 28" slicks are tempting. Thanks

I would think that the TFS Stage1 would have enough valve overlap with a 110* LSA to be ok with 9.8:1 CR. Might have to run premium if you're not already.

If it's a clearance issue, you can turn them around (turn the skinny part towards the rear) and maybe gain enough clearance.

Quad-shock.

You will dramatically increase tire wear with a spool going around corners.

Stronger than what? A mini-spool is stronger than a track-lok but your axles become the weak link. Not only that, a mini-spool will go through tires so fast that it will actually be more expensive than a good new limited slip unit on the street. My $0.02.

Is there any way to get rid of the 44 & 94 codes?

in a nutshell, I have one and need the calibration files for it. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.

Good point.

7/16-14

Hook a test light up between your battery's negative post and the ground cable. If you have a drain, which most cars do because of computer, clock, stereo, etc., the light on the test bulb will light up. Remove your fuses one by one until the light goes out and that will help you identify the...

I have never performed a comparison between desktop Dyno and the real thing but I have been told that Desktop Dyno is ultra-liberal with its figures. In all fairness, you probably have an honest 350hp motor with the right heads and some good tuning.

Need compression too. You have a lot of duration and a tight LSA. I would think 10.5:1 would be better suited for the cam. With stock rods and 5/16" rod bolts, I wouldn't turn it past 6500. You might also consider a 3000 stall.