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This can't be right? If I loosen either end and try to push the joint closed, the elasticity of the disc just pushes them apart again and pops the steering wheel out of the column. Should there be a bearing at the bottom of the column to keep the shaft from pulling out? This is a project car a...

OK I only visit here once every few months so pardon me for being late to the game, but: How does that happen on something that is working "correctly"?

I don't know about you guys but I'm gonna weld my tie-rods and control arm shims on once it's aligned.

Nice ad. Nobody said TMs are copies of Caltracs. The comment was referring to someone making their own Caltracs from online plans. He got his answers but, well, you know how this place goes.

There is no adjustment as it's all welded. Their length and position is specific to move with the axle's swing as defined by the leafs. If you go into adjustments as to the height of the front and/or rear pivots you might run into binding problems or severe stress on the leafs and mounting...

The down side to TMs and under-riders is while they can prevent axle wrap-up under acceleration, the rigid connection means they will also bind the suspension under hard braking. Caltracs work like a de-coupled torque arm and are basically disengaged under braking. That's correct, however...

Traction

To clarify (for me): you turn the key "on", pump starts and fills the bowl, and after you crank the car it starts, then the bowl starts to drain? It sounds like your fuel flow is completely cut off when the engine is running. The bowl shouldn't drain on its own at idle unless there's gas leaking...

Didn't you listen to the reporter? The British said so! How much more scientific can he get?

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/757862-20-20-story-about-old-tires-important.html

I did the same thing on mine and it held up for a couple of years until I got shorties and put the original bracket back on. My car is low and the long bracket would hit the ground before the suspension bottomed out. There's a lot of leverage put on that bracket. You're best to look for...

Mine had brake duct holes from the previous owner but I fiberglassed them shut. I took that pic last week as I was trying to mock it up. Over half the bolts didn't line up so I took a pic and called it a day. Staring at it for a while I can see where the bottom of the grille is uneven...

I've got an air body saw and a fine tooth blade, I'll give that a go. Hopefully less fiberglass floating around with that. The bumper version does, which is what garner67 posted. Rusty's is the "racing" version which assumes you won't be using the parking lights. The E version is too vertical to...

Thanks, that looks good. I was thinking of a lip around the bottom to give it a finished look as well. Man, I'm feeling inspired to work on the car again. What did you cut it with? I don't want to shred it and/or be itching for a week.

Rusty, any pics from the side and 3/4 view?

If your car is lowered the front sway bar can rub against the strut rod. Once the paint wears off and metal is exposed it can cause a squeak under light vibrations and bumps.

You could start here but you'd need an NPT to UNF adapter.

I was going to do the same to mine but wasn't sure how it would look. Anything looks better than that goatee Maier put on there. It is too horizontal hence wouldn't do much in the way of aero, plus it just looks weird. It might've been cool in the 70s which is probably about how old their...

From what I can recall he was strongly against anything that wasn't stock so I can't imagine a cowl induction hood. Maybe I'm thinking of someone else.:shrug:

Superdave.. There's a name I haven't heard in a while.