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Yes I greased them and I believe UPR? I'm not 100% on the brand.

Thanks for the info...I'll drive it a while and see what happens...I could be just paranoid haha

Ok I will drive it a while and see what happens. These were in a car for approx 500 miles so I guess it could be they need to "break in". Thanks for the info

The metal inserts r in the bushings

They are poly bushings...much much much tighter...when my car is sitting on the ground I can not compress the suspension by putting my weight (180lbs) on the rear.

I was told to rest the axle on stands to compress the suspension and tighten everything up so that's what I did

I just installed a 8.8 in my 85 GT and it came with upper and lower tubular control arms. I know they stiffen things up but my car no longer has suspension movement. It's very rough riding...I have the same springs that were on my stock 7.5 and stock arms and it rode fine then. Any ideas on...

That's good news...thanks guys. Hopefully someone can post on if they seal tight. 88lx, I want to wash my car but the tops leak severely lol.

Just wondering if anyone has used the weatherstrip kits on LMR and if they seal up good? I am thinking about redoing my 85 GT T-top weatherstrip but a buddy of mine said his new weatherstrip didnt seal up very good and he thought it was a waste of his money? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.

Thanks Kurt...I read that the 7.5 is good to handle 300~ hp so I think it should be good for my plans as of now...I would love a 8.8 but there isn't any around my area within my budget...I found a decent write up last night with pics but I lost the link

Yes I have already ordered the parts...I'm not building a drag car or anything so I was told the 7.5 would be fine for what my plans are...8.8's are kinda few and far in my area and the ones I've found need bearings also so the amount I spent on bearings and the gear set is more budget...

I am looking at rebuilding my 7.5 in my 85 GT. Is this something that can be done relatively easy? I got the 7.5 ford racing bearing kit and axle bearings and seals with new 3.73 gear set from LMR. Any suggestions or tips would be great. Thanks in advance.

I've taken the tank out...blew through the lines...no clogs...there is no fuel pressure regulator...no factory filter...I have a steady 5.5-6.5 lbs of fuel pressure at the carb...I have the inline filter before the pump to check fuel delivery to the pump...I've had the filter after the pump and...

Ok guys...thanks for the replies...I think your missing my question here...my car runs fine, I'm asking why the fuel filter is dry after running for 5ish minutes.

I've run it with no filter and it does the same thing...I've also had a electric pump on it as well with no change...I actually put the mechanical pump on to check to make sure it wasn't the electric pump...the pressure is between the pump and carb...the filter is currently before the pump to...

Fix what with the return line? I have no place to hook it to under the hood...if I plug it nothing changes...sorry for seeming difficult...thanks for the suggestions

I've been battling this for 4 months now...its like its vapor locking but it doesn't effect running...I don't know if this matters but the car has 5/16 fuel line and my pump is 3/8

Like I said the engine runs fine other then the dying sometimes at stop signs and it starts kinda hard once in a while...it idles at 1000rpms

I'm using the HO firing order...headers...chrome summit racing high volume mechanical fuel pump...the return line is open under the hood and hooked up on the tank...thanks for your help

Its a manual choke...no vacuum leaks...filter has 1500 miles on it...the choke isn't hooked up.