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Correct. When they sell an engine, they don't know if you need a flexplate (auto) or a flywheel (manual). It shouldn't be big deal if you use a balancer and flexplate that are correct to their specs. I'm not saying I'm trying to get out of paying the mechanic. I do however feel that the cost...

I see that you're a mechanic. So let me ask you, in all your time working on cars and ordering parts, have you never ordered a part which turned out to be inaccurate? In my limited time working on cars, I can say it happens to me from time to time. I can only imagine a professional mechanic sees...

Blueprint Engines test run and dynos their engines before shipping them. The problem is that they don't supply the harmonic balancers or flexplates. This is in no way the fault of the engine builder. It is the manufacturer of the flexplate. Yes, I will have to pay the $1500. Just seems it would...

So if a mechanic misdiagnoses a problem and does a bunch of unnecessary work, he should be paid for that? A car that overheats due to a bad thermostat, but the mechanic changes out the water pump and the radiator and all hoses and charges for that is fair?

So I bought an old Ford Ranger from a guy who made a mini dragster out of it by putting in a Blueprint 306 with a modified C4 transmission which only had a verified 48 miles on it. I just wanted the drivetrain for my '65 mustang, so I found a local Hot Rod shop to do all the swap work. Long...

ok thanks. This is gonna be a pain in the ass, but I guess its better than it being a timing cover leak

I should ad that it isn't just puddling up where my finger is pointing. Its basically anywhere there is a valley for oil to sit on top of the timing cover and near the front of the block. If you look carefully, you can see another puddle on the other side of the blue gasket

my 1965 289 puddles up oil in several places on the timing cover....and on both sides of the gasket. I checked all the bolts and they are tight as well as the gasket being fairly new. My buddy told me his 69 bronco did the same thing but he never knew why. Any thoughts or experience with this...

that's pretty cool starchief. I think I could just fabricate a piece of plastic on my own though. The question would be the gauge size. That square for the radio is pretty small, so 2 5/8 aren't gonna fit.

hmmm, I bought the car a few months ago, and it has a new intake on it and the sender looks to be new as well. My fuel gauge is accurate as far as I can tell, so I don't think its a cluster problem. Not sure what to do if all the aftermarket senders are crap as 2+2GT says

very cool! But I guess I should have clarified...1965 mustang

this may be a dumb question, but I'm a noob. Will a 351 fit in a '65 with the stock hood?

Has anyone figured out a way to put 2 small gauges in the original radio location without having to cut the metal? Any pictures? Or any pictures of other ways to utilize this radio space?

what is a mechanical voltage regulator? Do I apparently not have one? Everything seems to be working fine

voltage regulator? The car has a newer style alternator. 1965

hey guys....I'm fairly new to the classic mustangs. I found this box under the hood on the drivers side up near the front. What is it, and what is that wire that is clipped?

the temp gauge on my '65 is reading hot, but I had a laser temp of the engine done and it's reading 178 degrees. Any ideas why it's reading incorrectly? Could it be an old brittle wire? Does resistance make it read hotter?

I have dynamax turbos on my fairly stock 289 (manifolds, no headers). They are VERY quiet. I'd actually like something a little beefier sounding. Maybe I should get headers!

my winning lotto numbers are 289, 302, 351, and 460

glad to report that there was no damage! The high idle was due to a stuck choke. just a coincidence I guess