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you continue to amaze and inspire good sir. My 68 coupe is within a few days of be ready for the paint shop. Only issue now is finding a shop here in MD that actually understands these cars and has the space INDOORS to store her until it gets pretty. My wife has dubbed her the mistress since I...

:nice: Thanks! Now if CJ Pony would get the DYNCORN door skins back in stock I could get her off to the paint shop.

Making some head way.

So it looks like I am not the only guy to have this issue. Just curious but has any considered tailoring (i.e. adding material) to the extensions to get the proper fit? Only reason I ask is that it would appear to be easier than cutting and refitting. Also interested in knowing opinions about...

No joy on ebay. Wishing I had bought that 3D Printer now.

Hmm definitely do not have the plastic spacer for the adapter. Any idea who might carry a replacement or your thoughts on an alternative option? The rubber piece attached to the booster is still good so not worried there. The rubber boot on the interior facing side (cover pushrod to pedal) was...

After hours of research I am coming up short so I pose this to y'all for some help. My '68 Coupe has OE PB but after taking the booster and MC out to work the engine bay, I realize that some is not right. There is a spacer between the booster and MC which has a rubber gasket on the PB side and...

I just had to partial rail replacement on my 68 coupe and found a hole bunch of rot in other panels. IMHO, you should take a close look at your sheet metal (Qtrs, wheel wells, trunk brace, trunk drop offs etc.) and replace all bad panels at the same time. Also suggest you use the Eastwood...

Not sure why the critical feedback for you but I am having to take my to bare metal as well. The previous "repairs" were done so poorly and so much filler applied that there is no other choice for me. I am having to resin the entire care except for the hood and roof. I am debating doing the...

Just finished the trunk and it is pert near perfect. you sir are THE MAN! :hail2:

Hmmm…. didn't think about that. It is very flat so that may work. Appreciate the advice. :nice:

Getting there. Found I made a serious miscalculation with the lower rear window panel. It sticks up on the trunk side about 1/4". Either have to replace it or try and cut excess material out and reweld. Gonna try the cut material out route first.

Gonna have some major body work to get the new extensions, new trunk lid and new rear window lower panel. Should be fun.

Dash torn all the way down to fix previous repairs

Much work has been done since my last post. Completed DS rear new frame install. Installed new rear quarters, truck brace, lower rear window panel, tail light panel, trunk lid, new seat pans (all dyncorn). Also installed new floor mount e-brake, completed shelby drop and under coating. Currently...

So I spoke too soon. After tearing down the drivers side, I found the last 14" of the rail are toast and must be replaced. It also appears that the rear of the car was wrecked/damaged since the DS rail is 3/8" longer and 1/4" pushed out. More fun before assembly.

Here are some pic's of what I have been dealing with. Note that the quarters, wheel wells tail light panel and trunk drop off's all had new panels "welded/glued" over the old panels. The resulting mess created approx 1/2 gap between the quarter extensions and the tail light panel. The quarters...

I have not gotten this far yet. Every time I think I am getting close to welding I find another goof that must be corrected first. Today I found that the previous owner had welded (I use that term very loosely) a new trunk brace over the old one throwing everyone out of alignment. I also found...