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with the stock and the more then likey fake pro-m is 1.2volts at idle. and i checked all the wiring. my rebuilt motor has all black plugs with maybe 12 miles on it cleaned them let idle for maybe 1min and all black again thats how much fuel btw.

And ignore the nvm im just frustrated with the car just want to be able to drive the damn thing.

its hard to explain that why its hard to word. its really really f'd up thats what happens when you buy a blown up car in the dark. but what im trying to say is the maf that came with the car says its a pro-m 75mm 30c but the top part that says that was glued on with like white silicone not like...

Nvm i got it

i think the one i have is cail for 19# or a stock one with a pro-m cap on top of it because as i said up a bit it runs the same when i put a stock maf on just dumping fuel and runs like crap

i dont have a set 19# injectors i don't have the money to gamble on a new maf. so if i put the 42# maf in it wont run at all or just really lean

ok thats still bad. so one more shot. My car is a 89 its running super rich jerks at low rpm and surging idle from 400-1500 and stalls. when i unplugged the maf it smooths out but don't idle down quick. Anyhow the maf on it says its a pro-m 75mm 30c but i don't think its really calibrated for...

Sure what im say is can i use a maf set up for 42#injectors and a turbo on 30#injector N/A to test if my maf is bad. Because i think my maf is a stock maf with a pro-m logo and tube.

Ok so i have 30# injectors and seen no difference between a stock 5.0 maf one and my ""pro-m"" maf . i don't think it is a pro-m one myself the voltage does not change at idle between the 2. so my brother has one for 42# injectors and a turbo i want to know if i can use it to test if i need to...

well im going to say its the maf the only sensor that makes a diff when you unplug it is the maf

anyone have a idea. bump

i got my hands on a breakout box and hegos are reading 89-1.1v at idle. tps is set at idle good all grounds have 00.3 resistance. both mafs i have the stock one and the one that says its pro-m 75mm 30c read 1.2v at idle from what iv seen is high. But now that i have every possible thing to check...

ok the 2 i didint remember on koer is 95/96

"NO" change sorry

also put a stock maf on to try and know change

Replaced TPS & IAC CODES koeo 31 85 cant remember if i still have 15 Koer 41 91 21 12 13 High speed fuel pump relay circuit open don't remember what code that was Fuel pump secondary circuit failure and don't remember the code

And i got some fuel pump in open circuit code and cant remember the number all koer codes. Koeo no more code 11 but every thing else is the same from last time

sry yes got 41/91 and 21 car was at 160/180 during the test with a 160 thermostat also got 12 and 13

well o2s are reading lean when its not.

probably but i got 12v in my pin 1 any ideas are well come ill try anything at this point