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i would rag the hell out of that explorer if i were you

i like my SLP a lot. It can be subtle, as long as you keep it under 2750 =) pretty quiet at idle, sounds like it has a cam ( i wish ) obviously with this exhaust or magnapacks you can just go cruisin around at WOT without expecting some attention.

PICS!

way to lean i wouldn't run it with the c&l maf that is way too lean and probably detonating. what did it sound like?

I think it is a side-effect of driving habits. At 20k miles the tread was gone on the outside of my front tires. I got new tires and had an allignment done. The allignment was totally within spec! I had been living near some twisties and was always screaming/drifting through them. I also...

First thing I would do is get the code scanned. Did you drive the car for one cycle to let the cpu relearn the fuel mappings. The driving cycle invovles running the car with the A/C on. Read your owners manual to learn about how to properly cycle the car. The manual also says that running...

a good soak of pb blaster or wd-40 overnight should help give it time to penetrate. i said penetrate.. hehe hehe hehe

you should get mp3 samples of each and just name them 1-4.mp3 then have people vote on the mp3 file. the pesi challenge of exhaust! otherwise people will just vote for what they have (i did)

MagnaFlow’s catback achieved 12.5 RWHP and 8.2 RWT on a Mach 1. Too bad they didnt compare vs. weld ins I would be curious.

you need to properly drain, flush, and refill in my opinion. i wouldnt want to risk overheating. this is a how to for the bullitt, http://www.bullittarchive.com/Maintenance/basics/flushing_radiator/ ( the cobra now so the procedure will be different but read it so you can get a basic...

do it do it! It is a lot of work and took my non mechanical ass about 3 days. I did it on with jackstands! on my 2001 I could access the top row of header bolts from the top of the engine by raising that particular side of the engine with a floor jack and a 2x4 along the oil pan bolt rail. You...

jmo, if you want to do it right buy oem gaskets and stage 8 locking header bolts. if you want to redo it a few weeks later, reuse the stock gaskets and bolts. fwiw, the stock manifold studs are torque to yield meaning if they back out when you are removing the nuts, ( a few of mine did...

i didn't have to drop the k or remove the engine either. i hit most of the top bolts on the headers from above. had to remove the maf tube from the tb, but with the passenger side lifted the top row of bolts were easy to tighten down. scary to think you had to remove your motor! whatever...

heres a clip of mine. i really need to re-do them because it doesn't do the setup much justice. this was recorded with a laptop and headset microphone bbk lt's vrs o/r x pipe slp catback http://www.tennebo.net/revving.mp3 http://www.tennebo.net/takeoff.mp3 if you have quicktime god...

symptoms and CEL aside, the only way your gonna be able to tell is with a wideband o2 sensor.

they did the tsb with the tri-ax on it? that's nuts! i would think the dealer would void the warranty with the aftermarket shifter (you know how dealers are). Maybe i don't need to take mine off to have them check mine out.

those look great... but i'm glad my bbk's had a big flange at the end, made it a lot easier to install in the long run, even tho i had someone helping at the time. have fun with it! are you gonna use oem gaskets? =)

to answer the question about headers and stock H pipe. depends on what kind of headers you got. my bbk lt's bolt right up so if i fail my next inspection I'm swapping out the vrs for the stock h.

i wasn't shooting you, i was shooting the people at ford motor credit :)

:damnit: nice, i have 10k left in payments on my 01, and thats all its worth. :uzi: