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The back end is hideous in person. It slopes down like a '96 Taurus.

Thanks, ran into the same thing. I can barely get enough cable to put the caliper back on but it doesn't seat properly over the pads. I'll swap the lt and rt brackets and flip them upside-down tomorrow.

I can ship the fog lights. The shipping is $15 for usps, priority is $20 for most locations.

Take off factory OEM hood from 1998 Mustang GT. Crystal White paint in great condition. Fits 94-98 Mustang (V6 and GT). $100 OEM body kit comes with side skirts and front and rear bumper covers. Rear bumper comes with stainless steel bumper inserts. Crystal White paint in great...

Looking at my options for brake upgrades and saw the Baer T4 "track 4" kit. Wondering if anyone had any luck with clearance on '95 cobra R 17" rims. I would like to go with 4 piston calipers but don't want to change out the rims. Thanks

Does anyone have the Baer Grand Touring instead of the Track? The Track has PBR's "PGC" (Pad Guided Caliper) and the GT's have the "PDC" (Pin Drive Caliper). Any noticible difference between the two? They cost the same but the pads on the GT's are supposed to be larger.

Go at least with midlength or longtube headers. Shorties are a waste. My bassani mids with matching x pipe is awesome.

i'll try that

you can put 4v heads on a 2v block theoretically but it wont give you any benefit in performance, it will probably just make it alot worse. Get your 2v heads ported instead. good bang for the buck.

thanks everybody, I guess i will send out for one of the exact ones over the web and definately check out the one above. Its a pretty big scratch on my bumper corner and it is the virtually the only blemish.

Looking for crystal white touch up paint code ZR, all I can find is oxford or performance white, is either of these the same?

not a big fan of the C&L plenum. Causes alot of people to go way lean without a tune, shouldn't be your first mod anyway. I would get ML or LT headers first.

The intake elbow and TB should be later on your list after headers and exhaust. Probably throw in an SCT tune at that point too, you will just have to pay again for dyno time but use the same chip. Might be happier with doing the gears in round 1 also.

mine too but, I noticed it only does it with the A/C on. So I have no idea either. I also tried to replace the IAC with no luck. I would say vacuum leak also, which is what I am trying to find on mine.

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ttt

anything is better but go with as much lift as possible and a shorter duration without ported heads. Plus if the duration is too long you will get piston to valve contact. Mine are custom from fox lake. I got 286 hp on a mustang dyno which typically get less hp than a dynojet. In comparison...

ttt

probably easy, the bracket is most likely bent. bend it back or swipe one of a salvage car or order a new one from 50resto. cant be too much.

I guess if you like driving a boat then keep the fbody but hey this is tech and not talk.