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I have a 16 PP car. I was running a 1" spacer from AM but if i have someone i the back seat the tires rub the fender. I purchased 20mm spacers thinking it would solve the issue. The wheels appeared further out and I realized the factory lugs were sticking out enough to dig into the back of...

I will know after I get it back together. I already talked to a guy at the shop. They use the RTV on their race cars and said if I need him to he can machine the surface flat and reinstall. I hate to go that route, will cost half as much as the damn headers.

I am going to use just the RTV, no gasket. I had the gaskets that came with the headers in there.

When I yanked the header you could see where it was leaking and blown. I cleaned the surface and will copper RTV it in place and see if it does better.

The flange is a solid flange. It has the ticking under throttle. Last night under hard throttle I even had a pop. If I am hearing it correctly it is the passenger side giving me fits

I have an exhaust leak I can not find. I believe the BBK headers may not have ever sealed properly. Many swear by using copper RTV, but I have read to use both with and without a standard gasket, which is correct? Additionally I am about to install a GT40 upper/lower I salvaged from an...

A5literMan, Love the Red 4 eyes. My first was a red 86

The car has a BBK h-pipe/shorty headers and turbo swirl exhaust. Under the hood I deleted the smog pump and EGR and added a CAI.

After I pay off my bills like an adult from taxes I have some left to play with the car. What is money better spent? Lowering springs/rear control arms, A tune to tell the computer the EGR is gone and the exhaust/cai is there or a set of gears. I have Koni shocks struts ready to install...

Badge of honor having horizontal lights, it means your car came with the torque upgrade from the factory :)

Oh and yes, both housings are calibrated for my 19lb stock injectors.

Perhaps a really stupid question but can a MAF housing randomly go bad somehow? I ordered a 70MM MAF housing from ebay. I cant really is it because it is the non flange type so none of my stuff is set up for it. I did not realize this but out of frustration i hooked it up with my new sensor...

It will idle on its own. It dies off when I do apply throttle. I was not using someone on the gas peddle I was was using the throttle body but same end.effect. It holds for a couple seconds then dies under partial throttle.

That reset is proving challenging. I have something electrical happening, just not sure what. I got her to start and idle with the MAF but I still cant hold throttle and my voltages on the new TPS are suspect.

I ended up pulling the EGR but leaving the canister. In any case after everything went back together my original problem still exists. I either got a bad MAF sensor out of the box or something else is causing the car to die as soon as the MAF is hooked up

Meh, maybe I will just keep it. I just was wondering about the valve being good and they are expensive but that canister does not add much to the car. Easier to just leave it.

OK. I started this with a guy who had some stuff come up so I am trying to finish on my own. That said. on the bottom of the upper intake there is 2 ports One has the t connector the goes to the PCV. that one is easy. The other goes tot the charcoal canister. Since we removed all the EGR...

I know the adapter kits to do this are essentially 1" spacers all around to run 17x8. Would it work if you just ran a 1" spacer in the front using a 17x8 and a 17x10 in the rear with no spacer in the rear? I also see 2 types of kits. One is a spacer with lugs for the front and the a spacer...

OK. Saturday I drove the car and in ran just fine. I parked it and didn't run it until this morning. I got 50ft down the road and the check engine light came on and it started bucking and died. The idle is extremely rough and if you press the gas it kills the car. I swapped the fuel filter but...

Well mine is black so i hope black really means black not dark grey