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Agree. Proper torque is critical for that bearing type. From memory, torquing to 250ft-lb was a bear.

First I’ve heard of design issues with the SN95 wheel bearings. Both my car and my dad’s have over 100,000 miles after the 5 lug conversion. Mine were new FRPP in 2006. Dad’s were junkyard units, still using the original hubs.

Wasn’t suggesting you consider buying one. Just pointing out that your setup (power and traction) is close to requiring the heavy duty TA by MM’s design standards. Was trying to recommend you review that design before fixing yours.

You might already know this, but MM sells two different torque arms. Standard and heavy duty based on transmission first gear, axle gear and rear wheel torque. The heavy duty is substantially bigger (larger cross section) not only along the length, but clearly in the area where yours bent...

Pics from when I helped paint the silver metallic car. Hope these help.

Wow! I’ve been debating new wheels for the car and love that look. I’ve heard Sterns have an offset that will not fit right with SN95 five lug swaps. Actually looking at a few customs wheel companies to find something similar.

Are those Sterns? :drool:

The rear end will move side to side with the arc. That’s why making the pan hard as long as possible is optimal (minimizes the side movement). This should be miles ahead of the Quadra-bind. Curious to hear about how it drives.

An earlier post stated you changed it to the Cleveland firing order (which is the same as the 5.0 HO firing order, which you car should use) and it ran smoother. What firing order is it currently using that’s causing the issues?

You should be using the HO firing order. What firing order does it run better on?

I think the main driver here is budget. It can be done right for around $1000. The key is finding heads that don’t need work as that would blow the budget. Here’s how we did it. Explorer Intake $50 Explorer TB $40 GT40 heads (3 bar) $300 Trick Flow spring kit $170 Hardened push rods $110 B303...

You‘ll have to buy a spring kit no matter what cam you use. I remember doing a lot of reading for the hci on my friends car. We chose the b over the tfs. But they’re eally not that that different. Without a doubt there is a seat of the pants difference. The exhaust note changes so much, you...

I’d hold out for a complete set of 3 bar heads. The 4 bar (GT-40P’s) have a different spark angle that can make header and plug wire fit problematic. As I said before, just did a GT-40, explorer intake, b cam combo on a friends car. It’s a great, proven combination. Will it make the same...

I think this boils down to just a few questions. 1). Mild build or pushing the limit 2). Stock displacement or stroker 3). N/A or boosted If you’re engine is a mild build and near stock displacement. You probably don’t need one. If max effort, increased displacement, or boosted. It’s almost...

Agree with everything that’s been said. Don’t sell. These are becoming popular and good/clean ones are getting expensive. You’ll immediately regret it. Just helped a friend do budget HCI. Used GT40s, explorer intake and tb and used b cam. Added a trick flow spring kit, used cobra roller...

TOOLOW beat me to it. You’re at a power level where a better tire is a wise purchase.

Have had the same thoughts during some of the projects on my car. At a minimum, you know it’s worth it now that the frame rails are repaired. Not to mention all the upgrades you’ll have done. When it’s finished, you won’t have any regrets.

I consider it mandatory if you no longer have the factory style spring clamp connections. Have one in both my cars since the factory lines have been replaced with PTFE hoses with AN fittings. Friend of mine in college watched his car burn to the ground due to a fuel leak. A $20 extinguisher...

Junior in college and co-oping at a major automotive manufacturer. We were off site on a test drive. Didn’t know about it until the guard told us on our way in. They shut the line down and held a plant wide meeting. Lots of emotions that day.

I concur with all saying the lift pads were placed in the wrong locations. I’ve owned a two post lift for 8 years and have lifted dozens of cars and I’ve always avoided lifting a car from the pinch welds. I always try to lift a car from the most structurally sound locations which in most cases...