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Pretty awesome. Would drive.

I replaced all of the bushings in my 86 with Poly bushings. It is a bad idea to do them in the rear upper and lower control arms due to axle wind up. With the stock bushings you can have an idea of how far you can push it before your ass end breaks loose and you have a mess on your hands...

Well, what are you going to do mostly? read MM LCA's make a huge difference as well as a panhard bar. I am missing the last part....the torque arm, but my car handles well. I don't care about drag racing at all so it's good enough for me.

This deal is for everyone online. Just be sure to tel him...Steve that you heard about it online, other wise, no discount for you. Here's my whip.

This man knows. If I were to do it all over, I would have gotten better heads, but at the time I was a broke mofo.... And if I were to do it again, I would skip over a 302 and get a three fiddy juan, oh wait, that's waht I did...EFI and all.

call up Tousley Ford in White Bear Lake in Minnesota and ask for Steve. He gives 5% over cost on all FRPP stuff. I got my 03 Cobra front stuff which is red calipers with pads, rotors, lines and banjo bolts for 340.00. Skip all of the other front stuff and get the cobra stuff. I had the 95...

don't know if this'll help, but I have an 86, swapped out my E6 heads with Thumper's and a ported lower by TMOSS and I gained 45hp and 40lbs.

post a pic. IF you have all of the stuff from an SN95, you don't need any brackets.

GEt some MAximum Motorsports Lowers and leave the uppers stock. Otherwise, I have a set of lowers that I "boxed" with 1/4 inch steel and added Energy Suspension poly bushings. Hooks better than stock. I want 100.00.

IF you would like to get some good control arms, now is the time. Not necessary though. IF you want to reinforce the torque boxes, now would be a good time. Leave the sway bar alone. Leave the brakes alone unless you get a T-Bird rear with discs or want to go 5 lug. Basically...

you don't need to do anything with the egr. just take off all of the smog related stuff and you are fine.

like said above. poly in the rear is bad mmmmkay? It causes snap oversteer. I had them, got rid of them when my ass end came out from under me at the track. Now I sport MM rear LCA's with no quad shocks and the difference is night and day.

Wrong forum n00b.

I know there was a sticky a long time ago, but it seems to have disappeared. Right now, I have the opportunity to buy this 351 from a friend of mine who is in need of cash. He built this for his late 90's Fox. He got a 351 from a 96 Van pulled it apart, saw everything looked good, put it back...

I am trying to figure out why my car makes this noise. I have an 86, with an SN95 brake conversion. A few years ago, I noticed when I went over 70mph, it made a humming sound, very loud humming from, I believe the right front wheel area. It does not hum when I have my foot on the gas, but...

Bilsteins are the best overall non adjustable shock.

Your wheel selection will not be that great as 94-04 wheels will not clear that dust cap. You will have to bash it in. Plus who wants to go through the effort of doing 5 lug and keep the drums?

If anyone wants them, I have the front bottom coil spring isolator in poly that I did not use. It is a tube basically that wraps around the spring where it sits in the spring cup. I'll give them to someone if they pay the shipping, probably 3.00 or so.

You can run 94-95 or 96-98 without problems with the dustcap. You can run 255/40/17 in the front with no rubbing.

Run isolators. Like said above, metal on metal is not good. I replaced my clapped out rubber ones with poly rears and poly fronts. I bought mine through Maximum Motorsports and they are made by prothane. You can get them from Energy Suspension as well.