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For my drag car build, I wanted to keep power windows. Before teardown- the passenger window was acting weird. I replaced the motor and it would roll up, but not down. I've stripped the main body harness and rewired with a Ron Francis kit as the OEM wiring was in bad shape. I left the power...

Here's what I currently have setup... Steering- Rebuilt OEM rack from Chocostang 16:1 manual Centerlink- OEM Tie Rods- Moog Upper Control arms- Open Tracker Racing Blueprinted Lower Control Arms- Moog OEM replacements OEM Spindles Idler Arm- Open Tracker Roller Lower Sway Bar- 1 1/8" Open...

Oh I've got tons of those. LOL, thanks for clarification.

Don't know if I've ever heard of a "panel popping stick"? I'm getting ready to yank off the fenders anyway, Figured that's the best time to sort this out before putting on new weatherstripping.

I'm working through my drag car build, and while waiting on some parts, I wanted to tackle some of the body panels/alignments. Front fenders are coming off for a tube front end in the next week or so, and I noticed that the passenger door's alignment is a bit off. The gap at the rear is really...

After reinstalled the new timing belt and aligning the cam gear/crank gear/distributor gear with #1, it started and runs now. Spitting some black smoke, but it runs good enough to drive it in and out of the garage, and that's what I was after. Either the cam gear is still a tooth off, or I've...

Or the cap is wrong. But I've looked at 2 caps, and they have the #1 in the same location. Which is not as the same as the book.

Yeah, From all the videos, book reading, and internet searching I've done. Either someone installed this cam belt incorrectly, or the timing belt has jumped. I cut off the old belt and ordered a new one. I have the crank aligned where it's supposed to be, I think the pointer on the cam gear...

More confusion. The cap clearly has the #1 marked where the #2 wire should be in a 1-4-3-2 firing order.

As for your question about jumping the solenoid. Thats a new thing I've never seen before. I was using the key because my remote starter switch would not fire the starter with the key in ON. Key switch on column spins it over fine.

It gets more interesting. Found spark plug wires firing order were incorrect sequence as well. Someone had them at 3-4-2-1 But when the motor is at TDC on compression,the distributor is not pointing at #1. (Or where #1 is supposed to be) its in between two plugs. I pulled the timing...

175 on all 4 cylinders

Has spark. Spark tester flashed from coil to distributor. Spark tester flashed from wire to plug. Plug arc shown from spark plug when inserted into spark plug wire. I'll check again.

Tried, no start.

Sure did. Even shot some into the spark plug holes. No start.

I picked up this rust free 2.3 for a drag car build. I've got another project in front of it, so its build start is on the backburner at the moment. The guy I bought it from was swapping his Calypso 5.0 parts over before having title trouble. He said he's never attempted to start it. Anyhow...

Boy if you start googling 331 or 347 stroker kits on the internet, you can end up down a wild rabbit hole with endless links. So, I'd figured I'd go right to the source of Mustang guys!!!! Anyhow, I'm doing a street build for my 66 Stang. 88 Roller Block is at the machine shop, punched .030...

That's just over my power goals, but very impressive. Can you elaborate on your combo?

I think it's a realistic baseline. It's going in my 66 Mustang Coupe. I'm looking for a fun driver, nothing crazy.

I couldn't pass up the deal on these from a local. Theyll work much better than what I had, which was nothing. Lol