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Can anyone post pictures of the rods installed correctly on a 65 coupe? I want to make sure that I get them right so that I don't have to take them on and off a bunch.

All that code really tells is that it is a T-10 4 spd. off of a 66 289 non K-code car. They really don't give a lot of info on that tag.

Well, like I said, I have never tried it. I have always cut out the bad spots and patched them right. I was just presenting an option that they said they have had great success with. The reason that most rust starts in metal over metal areas is because there is not primer or paint between...

Here is a suggestion that I got from the guys at Mustangs Plus. I have never tried it, but it just might work. They said that they do it all the time for non-concours cars. 1. Clean all of the rust off of the old floorpan and get it down to bare metal. 2. Prime it with POR-15 or a...

I agree. I own the same one. I would suggest spending a couple hundred bucks more and getting a good one. Volume is extremely important if you are using spray guns since you shouldn't spray while the motor is running. Get the biggest tank you can afford or you will spend half your time...

I have a 65 coupe with a 351 and a T5. Threading the clutch cable through and keeping it away from the headers is a little bit tricky, but it can be done.

Yes, that code is the ratio of the rear end. Above that should be the code for the model of the axle. If it is a WCZ-E it is a standard rear end. If it is a WDJ-B then it is a posi. The numbers to the right of the ratio are the build date, and the plant code, in that order.

I personally like the look of offset rim sizes front to back... like 17x7 on the back and 16x6 on the front. I think it gives the car a very nice aggressive stance.

The only way to get the exact horsepower is to put it on a dyno somewhere. Most major towns have a speed shop with a dyno. If your engine is bone stock, with no major performance upgrades, you are probably sitting at about 170 - 180 at the wheels.

The casting numbers for the engine will be on the bottom of the block just above the starter. You will probably have to take the starter off to clean and read the numbers. The numbers that you are looking at I believe tell the plant, and the production line that made the block originally...

Vacuum advance typically only works at the lower end of the rpm range, where you typically will not have a lot of boost. By the time the boost comes in, your centrifigal advance should be kicking in. I would think that you would have enough adjustment in the vacuum advance to tune it to make...

I have seen that with a bad vacuum advance unit before, but swapping the distributor should have taken care of that.

I have a 65 coupe that used to have power steering, but someone has put the manual in it. I will swap the linkage and stuff with you if you are interested. I would like to put the power back in this.

I need to find a p/s cylinder and valve and all of the linkage for a 65 coupe. Are there any other cars that I might be able to find at a junk yard that would have interchangable parts? Maybe a falcon or fairlane or something?

A popping noise is usually either a header leak, or a blown head gasket. If you get a mechanics stethoscope and run it along the joint between the head and block, you will easilly be able to detect a blown head gasket.

Can anyone tell me where I can find an original style 65 V-Emblems with a 351 on them? Similar to these:

My dad has a set of P headers on a 65 coupe with a 351. The headers are made by Hooker, but it did take a little modification to make them fit. Nothing that a cutoff wheel and a wire feed welder cant take care of.

The last car that I saw do this had the idle screws turned out too far on the carb. As you decelerate, it is allowing too much fuel into the engine. Turn your idle screws in 1/4 of a turn and see if it makes a difference, if not, turn them back out.

I had the same problem. I thought that it was my heater core, but upon tearing it apart I found that it was just a cracked hose. My recommendation is that whatever you find, replace the heater core anyway while you have it apart. They are only $20 and it will save you a lot of time later.

Anybody know any tricks for setting the accelerator pump linkage or is it just trial and error? Also, where are yours set at? maybe it will give me a starting point. I have a 71 302 with an autolite 2100 carb. The linkage has 4 holes in the throttle arm, and then 2 different holes in the...