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Not too sure what Daggar is talking about, but the WMS unit does datalog with a laptop. My brother has this wideband and it works quite well. It does zero out now and then for no reason but overall it's pretty good.

Not so much the boost level as it is the power being made. If you want it to live shoot for 450-500 rwhp. People will say they destroyed motors making less power and others will say they made 100 rwhp more and had their motor live, but on average a 450 rwhp car will last a good while and...

Not to worry though, you'll split the block before hurting anything else.

The taurus fan likely pulls twice the amperage your old fan did. I assume you're running a relay cuz I don't know of any switches that would handle 30-40 amps constant. Chances are your relay isn't up to the task.

Wouldn't ya know it, I'm running 275/60/15 BFG T/A's on 15X8 Draglites with 5.5bs on a 90LX. I had to bash the **** out of my inner wheel wells. I haven't rolled the fender lips, but it's definitely a good idea. I've taken a few chunks out of my tires over some big bumps.

No, you've got it right, mine is wrong. I run the switch the other way too, makes it easier to flip the switch too the other way.

Waste of money. I don't even know why you bother with the 93 octane.

I used threaded rod and the wingnuts as you can see. Just a quick loosen and I can flip the switch without having to pull the plate completely.

You can change the balljoints. Check the link in my signature...

Goes with the other phrase, "Or else it's shop lifting". :D I had the Flowtech longtubes. Didn't have quite the issues you do though. In fact, the only reason I got rid of them is cuz the tube that goes over the steering column had no hope of fitting when I installed my flaming river...

Bingo. 2500 new born babies are dropped every month, 21 years later we can still see the effects...

turbomustangs.com has a a forum for boosted carb guys. Lots of knowledgable people there.

Back out your idle set screw on the throttle body. Timing won't do it.

The first thing I would do is a converter. But your times look good for a first time. Get the launch sorted out and it would be 14's everytime.

The whole point of the SFI is so it is track legal. I *think* once you need a rollbar you also need an SFI balancer. Not sure as I don't have the rulebook here, but it's somewhere around there.

Get some ARP's. Pull the diff cover, pull the c-clips and yank out the axles. Bang out the old ones and bang in the new ones.

Not sure about that shifter, but Holcomb makes a plate to mount a quarterstick style shifter in the stock location.

You've insulted Tony the Tiger...

Sportsman is when the three ambers come down one at a time, then the green. The time between the last amber and the green is 0.5 seconds. A pro tree lights all three ambers at once, then the green. The .4 and .5 is the time between amber and green.

What he meant to say was "as long as it's unleaded racing fuel". Leaded will kill your oxygen sensors and cats. But anyways, you don't need racing fuel. 93 octane is more than enough. If I were to guess, you'd make less power with the racing fuel than you would with pump gas.