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I did the conversion and used the link above as reference. Everything went pretty well. Got all the parts from a car being parted out including the tranny. I had to buy new headers, dipstick and an h-pipe tho - mine got trashed trying to remove them.

You want the lifters to sit farther down. On the non-roller blocks the larger roller lifters would stick up too high and the spider holddown and hardware wouldn't work. A few companies sell the smaller base circle cam, CHP, Crane, and Comp IIRC as well as most custom grinders can do it...

You are correct. Flexplate and balancer from the 89 will not work and the 69 crank. They are the wrong balance. To use the cam special lifters have to be used - IIRC they run about $500 from Crane. Or the block can be modified to use the spider hold down (and be careful not to destroy the cam...

An 89 doesn't have a knock sensor to worry about. IIRC one of the reasons Ford went to the hyper cast pistons in 93 was because the forged pistons made too much noise for knock sensors in the vehicles that had them. I don't think Mustangs have knock sensors prior to 94 and perhaps not even then...

Call your insurance agent. Don't mention suing anyone while talking to him (insurance companies don't care for that much - I used to work for one). See your family doctor about the neck pain. If the pain persists ask to see a specialist, have Xrays and if warranted an MRI to rule out disc...

This all depends on your state laws and your insurance company. As far as pain and suffering - have you been to a doctor? What is the actual damage done to you? Pain is subjective. GET MEDICAL RECORDS! Did you go to the hospital? As a heads up, anytime you get into an accident and feel ANY pain...

I've heard pulling the heads in the car is not possible with studs? True?

Tires?

Got a couple for $38.99 each (Bosch) at Autozone this weekend.

I have 140,000 miles on a Jeep 4.0 engine, 135,000 with Castrol Syntec oil. No foaming ever (granted the Jeep hardly sees above 5000rpm). I used to own a '70 Mustang with a 351c with 4V heads. I used Castrol Syntec in it as well and it did see high rpms (the only way to get air through those...

Nothing plugs into the SPOUT. You unplug it to set initial advance, leaving it in will allow the computer to advance the ignition as needed. By removing the SPOUT you disable outside control of the timing and can set it without interference.

The spout isn't on the gun it's on your car. The other thread tells you where to look for it in the wiring harness. Here's a pic of it on an F150 (I couldn't find a pic of one on a Mustang)

You cam timing has nothing to do with ignition timing. The 4 degrees advance on the cam install does not mean you have to add 4 to the ignition timing on the crank. If the crank reads 8 degrees then it's 8 degrees (did you check with the spout out?). Flush the system real good and then... I...

He's probably mixxing it, not running straight 110. Usually like 1/4 tank 110 and the rest 93 or something like that.

Only one reason I can think of - I live near a drag strip and a few stations around here sell 110 octane leaded race gas. AFAIK the cats, O2 sensor are the only items.