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Jumpering the pressure switch is a BAD idea! The switches are there for a reason! Hook up a manifold gauge and see what the pressures actually are! Old (as in old for R12) had the same fitting for the low and high pressure side. People tried charging the high side, and cans would blow up in...

Look at the emissions sticker for plug gap. Should be .052-.056".

3.73's is what most prefer for a street car.

Your inertia switch won't fix anything. Do a parasitic draw test. You should have maybe 100ma or less. If not, start pulling fuses with your meter in series. When you get down to around down to an acceptable amount of draw, you know where to start looking. Also I'd look at any aftermarket things...

This is actually for my Crown Vic, but I'm sure it is very similar to doing it in a Mustang. I did post on a CV forum, but there is a lot more activity on Stangnet. Anyways... The OD band went out, and I have a T5 with about 1000 miles on it. That's the how and the why. I've scoured the net...

The brown stuff you are probably seeing is rust. Flush it out. As far as Bars Leak, it's fine if you put it in correctly. One time I was in Green River, UT, and I needed a hose. The place has like 1000 people and there is nothing, I mean NOTHING 100 miles West or East of there. Not even a gas...

Hook up a FP gauge and note pressure when it is running fine and when it acts up. Also TFI modules can go out when they get hot. The fact that it sat 10 years means there could be some varnish in the tank from old fuel, but I don't think this is your problem. If it is, you can run a few tanks...

Vac leak. Fix where the smoke is coming out, and your problem should go away.

My vote goes for hardware. The only time I have seen any axle housing distort by any amount worth noting is on the 9.75" that you have to spread the pumpkin to get the gears in and out. And the cases are made from aluminum. Are the mounting plates on the wrong side by chance? Had that happen...

You gave us a whole lot of info we don't need. Did you check with an inline spark tester to see if there is spark (you can also use a regular test light but it can blow out the bulb)? I've heard of brand new crate engines not starting because they had the wrong plugs in them (also check gap). If...

Now that you mentioned it, I think the did switch! I have the official 5.0 manual, but it must be at the shop. I'm almost positive my '88 had hyperyouwreckedit. Anyways, I'd still be more worried about the rods.

BTW the stock pistons IIRC are hyperneutecnic, not forged. Could be wrong. I'd be more worried about the rods.

The last pistons I bough I had custom made by Icon. Can't remember the cost (they came with a stroker kit I ordered). LOADS of options.

You mean higher ratio gears. That's for CAFE standards (fuel mileage). I went from 3.27's to 2.73's. I gained something like 4-5 MPG, and about 400 revs less at 60 MPH. I paid $40 for the 2.73's on ebay, and all I had to buy other than that is a crush is some diff oil. This was on my P71, not...

You need special springs for a 303? Stock should work fine (unless they are bad). I had to get custom springs for my 347. But I bet your engine doesn't turn 9,500 RPM.

Yes. You need to change the firing order tho (as mentioned).

Don't mess with a wet kit unless you know what the :leghump: you are doing. Start with a dry.

Must be missing something?

Please let me know what this has to do with a rotating assy?

Go .040 over get new pistons, rings, gaskets, bearings etc. You never know what you get when you buy a used engine. Unless if they have a guarantee. Bore/hole is about $15. Get some chrome moly rings, or even some plasma moly. Pistons, uses some cast aluminum. Heads you want checked. It might...