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I'm overhauling a running 5.0 out of a wrecked 95 mustang that has never been rebuilt but sat for a while. I have cleaned the block spotless, honed and replaced the timing chain / gears, oil pump, rings and bearings. I'm basically just doing a re-ring, bearing replacement (except cam) and...

I called Jegs and ordered the Processional Products 80007 with no spacer. The tech I ordered from said I didnt need any spacers to use my stock pre 69 pulleys. I will update once the parts get here.

Good stuff!!!!! I will order the Jegs unit tomorrow w/ the correct spacer. FYI Summit is running a special right now for free shipping for orders above $100 and Jegs will match this. I have ordered lots of stuff from Jegs latley, better customer service and quicker shipping.

This could solve my problem.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-329600 Anyone know if the water pump pulleys are interchangeable with the 289 water pump and fan? Edit: Nevermind won't work w/ reverse rotation water pump pulley.

I'm doing a re-ring and bearing replacement on a 1995 5.0 (302) out of a running Mustang to drop into my 1965 mustang till I can sort out the issues w/ my 289. I'm converting the 5.0 over to carb and I have everything figured out except where to get a 50oz harmonic balancer that will fit my 5.0...

Head gasket replacement completed and at start up and idle the engine still knocked. I ran it for about 30-40 minutes, at different RPM's in neutral w/ no load on the engine and after a while the knock seemed to disappear and reappear but mostly disappear especially at higher RPM (could have...

I did check bearing clearance during assembly w/ Plastiguage and everything was in spec. The darker plugs were in the hot (overheating) cylinders....so I'm guessing heat darkened them. There were no signs of oil or water in the cylinders. I have always had good oil pressure cold and hot. I...

Engine ran long enough for a break in for the new cam. which is a Summit knock off of a Performer cam. Ran about 30 minutes during break in, a couple dozen other times for timing and trying to find my knock and 1 trip around the neighborhood. Longest run was 30 minutes for the break in and the...

After searching for images of 289 head gaskets, I discovered I put the gasket on backwards.... With this new info do you think my knocking was lifters damaged by water in the oil? So what should I inspect prior to re-assembling?

OK so I had my 289 machined and bored .040+ and crank ground -.010 and I rebuilt the engine myself w/ rebuilt GT40 heads. I used the correct bearing, etc. I noticed a knocking after the rebuild, which sounded a lot like a lifter knock, and I went all over the engine w/ a stethoscope and was...

I have the same problem on my 289 after I had everything machined and I rebuilt it. Same thing... it knocks pretty loud at idle and after it warms up goes away. I have pulled individual plug wires while running hoping to narrow down the search and nothing. Thought is was a exhaust leak...

I have about 2 miles on it since all my recent work and it needs to settle. Once I get it aligned and get some miles on it I will re-evaluate if I need to drop and how much. If I cut I will use a cut off wheel. Just wanted to know what everyone else has for clearance from tire to...

I am working on aligning my front end and was taking measurements. Last year I replaced the 8" with a Lincoln 9" and added 1" rear lowering blocks and now my front end is 1.5" higher in the front. I just replaced the entire front suspension (everything except spindles) and did the Arning drop...

FYI - The shims can ber purchased at Harbor Freight as (body shims) for $9.99. The magnetic base is not going to work w/my wheels so removed the center cap and I purchased a spindle adapter. In case any one else plans to do this for 65 V8 spindals you need Longacre adapter: 78414 Ford...

It very likely could be a header gasket as they are missed matched. I purchased a mechanics stethescope yesterday and the noise seems to be not coming from the lifters, any one cylinder, valve train, rod bearings or mains. The tick gets most intense at the timing cover and weaker at the...

I did measure the pushrods and lifter preload and per my limited knowledge both are correct. I broke the cam/engine in exactly as the cam instructions stated. I have eliminated the #2 cylinder as a possibility, the noise is still there with the 2# pushrods removed. I didn't let it warm enough...

Ok, so for those of you who have read some of my previous post are gonna realize I don’t get things done too fast. We just had out 1st kid and wife will only let me in garage every once in a while. I rebuilt the 289 w/ all new parts except the block, crank and rods. I installed a new cam and...

I fixed my wiring issue thanks to you guys here on Stangnet. I set the timing to 12 degrees before tdc and the engine started running much smoother. I also swapped the coil to a Summit knock off performance coil. Engine still got pretty hot and spit some coolant, but it maybe overfilled and...

Yea, the T5 neutral switch has been removed. The guy who rebuilt it filled it in w/ gray gasket silicone. I would consider adding this switch if it can be used a neutral safety switch. I have read these switch cant handle 12 volts and lot of guys leave a needed pin out when they rebuild? I...

OK, so I ran a jumper for the neutral safety across to the two red wires w/ black stripes and switched the wire on the "I" side of the solenoid to the "S" and then switched the other wire and now she cranks in the cranking position and the coil has power as it should while cranking and in the on...