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What jets are you running and what altitude are you at? Generally you should go down a jet size per 1700ft or so IIRC. The CFM on a carbs rating is aprox how much air it will flow, not how much fuel.

Tagged. This car is coming along great. I wish I had the cash to do this. I honestly have (most) of the skills to fab things like this, just never the money do to so. *sigh* maybe one day when I get out of the AF and get a real job I'll be able to do something like this. For the guys...

Bump for the night crew, any good place to buy body parts that don't need to be cut/drilled on/ fitted would be helpful. Thank you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-1993-Ford-Mustang-GT-LX-NEW-Trunk-Deck-lid_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33656QQihZ025QQitemZ380104850630QQtcZphoto I need a deck lid, driver door and fender for my car. Says that no holes are drilled, that will be a pita...

Smoke out the intake and make sure there are no vac leaks. Don't use the "tried and not so true" carb cleaner spray technique, that might work if you have a serious vac leak, but for a minor one, smoke it out.

Name of a tool? Obama Ok all jokes aside, you can use the tube off of a compression tester and hook it up to an air hose to get the job done.

You'll know if its bad, you'll see a break/warp around where the coolant ports are if its bad. Did you do a leak down test on the cyls before you went to tear it apart to make sure it wasn't a head gasket? I highly doubt it is, but if it is, that's the way to tell. --Chuck

T-5 mustang manuel tranny Check that out, just get a rebuild kit for that one and you'll be good to go. Hope this helps. --Chuck

Most likely an intake gasket, you won't tell until you tear it down and look. Unless you want to do a pressure test, or an exhaust tester in the coolant. I'm still betting on the intake regardless.

Well... what do you plan for it? Honestly those blocks are so hard and good, if there isn't any problem with it that bottom end will last you a good while. Check the ring ridge (I'm sure there isn't much if any at all.) Pull the caps off and check the bearings, if all is well, just put it...

Ah yes I can totally back up this statement. I'm stationed at Kirtland AFB and I can tell you, the wind, sand.. everything, is HELL when trying to work on cars. Thankfully I have a shop here on base I go to regularly but damnit-man, I feel for you. If it were Me I'd make a run to...

I would think you might want to run 42lb injectors, and get a good tune. Who makes this kit and how much does he want for it?

Whats the voltage coming from that alt? Also what is the amperage (if you can check that.) Also what alternator did you put on there and did you have to change any of the wiring when you put it on there.

How about you call the guy you trust to do your tune, if he thinks its possible for him to tune such a setup. I'm sure he's been asked stranger things before.

I've been wondering the same thing. Seems as they do, but they have to be burnt for you car specifically. I would check with a local tuner to see what he can do for you.

Damn.. I just got schooled. Thanks for the post Jrichker. You seriously... are the man. Damn.

Good stuff, thanks bud!

Pulled the KOEO codes and they are as follows: 31, 67, 81, 82 and 84. The EEC is an 87 Auto in a 5sp car if that matters. I'm thinking (which doesn't account for much) that since there is a code 67 (Neutral Safety circuit failure) that it wouldn't pull them in fear that it might be in D or...

Mods are in my sig. The only thing I can think is that the coolant sensor is shot thus the ECU doesn't know that the car is "warmed up." I just put a new IAC on there for the cold starts, I've been running with it blocked off (and just fine) for about a year now. I put the new one on...

That's I was thinking. You have a part number for that belt? Thanks.