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Not sure if this will help but my stock temp gauge "normal range" changed when I put in a new sending unit in the manifold. Was reading 1/4 at normal, now is half. I use a non-contact laser thermo on the manifold and it's reading around 180 and the lower hose is at 135 degrees. I recommend...

Good practical advice from your fellow stangers here. I would also recommend sub-frame connectors (welded in). If your replacing the a-arms, other front components and plan to have the car for a long time, I suggest putting in roller spring perches while your at it. One thing I've noticed...

Just an update, I fixed all the shoddy underdash wiring and found an extra wire lead that I asked them to bring into the car for future tach but of course they just cut the end and that wire could have easily contacted metal under the dash shorting the system. After covering the exposed end, I...

Today I inspect all wiring behind the dash and everything appears in order and loooks in great condition for 40 years old underdash wiring. I did notice that the Mustang Steve diagram for duraspark conversion has changed to eliminate the pink resistance wire but I did mine per his original one...

There's a Duraspark II ignition system in my 67 and I also replaced main front wire harness and all motor electrical wires. It has worked fine for 2 years but a couple weeks ago the car shut down while I was driving. I knew it was electrical and after a closer look I found some shoddy wiring and...

I had the same difficulty a couple years ago and ended up going with a Borla tip for my 2.5 system. The Borla tip I got is an oval thats fits really well in the Gt valence cutouts. It is rolled stainless with a slant cut. I think I got them for around $55 per tip from Summit.

I have magnaflow(x) system with AOD (JBA crossmember) and FPA long tube headers. It's tight, especially around u-joint area but works fine. A good exhaust shop will be able to handle it.

Here's some video instructions on how to do it: http://www.performanceautomatic.com/downloads.htm click on "AOD Shift Linkage Kit" and your set. I did it also and it was easy.

I second FPA longtubes, they solved all my issues and my tranny pan hangs lower than the collectors. They'll last you forever too.

Step up and get the Fordpowertrain headers, you'll be done forever. They are thicker gage, perfect quality and they don't hang down any lower than your frame rails. If your going to keep the car for awhile and putting in a spendy stroker, to me it's well worth the piece of mind of not cringing...

I also researched this alot and found alot of complaints with Performance auto. I ended up with an Art Carr AOD and am pleased. One of the big dogs on this forum can tell you horror stories about PA, I'm sure its searchable.

The stock carpet replacement is 80/20 nylon rayon mix, the rayon fades bad thus the purple. Most vendors including ACC offer 100% nylon but off course it's not "stock" so people tend to shy away from it in lieu of the oem stuff. Bottom line, buy nylon stuff and also consider a cut pile...

I have the same alternator and had squealing with my v-belt initially. I purchased a "top cog" v-belt from Dayco, tightend the crap out of it and that solved my issue. I do not want to go sepentine. It's been working great over the last year but I still have not tested it out with my...

I'm betting it'll run as good or better than it looks. Where did you get the thermo housing, O-ring type or gasket? What's your plan to hookup this power for tranny, traction and prevent body twist? My stab: 565 HP 545 TQ

Weekend update, the clanking has returned but slightly less than before. It was quiet but something on the right side is getting loose creating some slop somewhere in the diff. tube. ????

Just an update, the shop that built the rear took it apart and found nothing wrong and everything wearing great. So they put everything back together, I drove it for 3 hours today and somehow the noise has disappeared. Hope it stays that way.

Recently put in 9" versailles with 3.73 gears and Truetrac. When slowing down under 25mph there is a clunking going on on the right side of the diff. There are no noises upon acceleration or at mid-high speed coasting. We put it up on the rack and idled in 1st gear and your hear a constant...

FPA longtube headers (Ford Powertrain) is what I put on my 67FB with 331 stroker and magnaflow X system. The tubes are 16ga. and flange thickness is 3/8", they are extremely well built and you'll gain an extra inch or more of ground clearance as they don't hang down any lower than your frame...

I also would definately recommend a quality built AOD (Art Carr, Lentech, ect..) especially with 4.10's. They are built to handle 600+hp now and you'll get the best of both worlds.

I called them last summer right away and got the standard response. "check for obstructions in the lines". I didn't get the impression they were very interested in helping me beyond that. But I think I made the tech guy at Chris Alston feel good by getting rid of me right away. I think I have...