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I put new check balls in. All seals bench tested before assembly. It's just either the OD piston not getting pressure, VB issue or the wrong band. Looks like I'll be taking it out.

Worked before but not after the rebuild. Never functioned after rebuild, just neutral.

I recently rebuilt the AOD in my 1992 Mustang 5.0. This is the first rebuild for this trans. My main reason was because the snap ring on the intermediate sprag had expanded and came off destroying the thrust washer and effectively burning out second gear. Everything went well, the car nails 1, 2...

Thanks guys. Just want to follow up in case anyone else searches this problem. It was the brake light switch causing the shifter to stay locked. I hadn't noticed the brake lights not working since I don't drive much. So I guess if your automatic is stuck in park, check your brake lights first ;)

The victim is a 1992 LX 5.0 I can't get the shifter out of park when started. If I turn the key half way, I can shift it to neutral , start it then proceed to drive or reverse. I also noticed the brake lights don't work and wondered if these are related issues. The shifter thing I can live with...

I searched like crazy and couldn't find it. Does anyone know the thread size of the screws that hold the sensor itself to the MAF unit? I'd like to replace mine. The car is a 1992 5.0. Any help appreciated.

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The car is a 1992 Mustang 5.0 Mods I just completed are: Late model 130 amp alternator BBK 155 LPH Fuel pump FMS Cobra intake MSD Billet Distrubtor Existing mods: Crane Hi 6 Ignition Mac shorty headers BBK H pipe Flowmaster cat-back The problem: The car starts fine cold and runs...

What would cause the pump to run continuously without shutting off?

Ok, I got the fuel pump running. Also while I was under the hood, I decided to install a Cobra intake and re-seal the injectors. Now the pump just keeps running with the key on. The engine turns over fine but won't start. I'm getting 12 volts to the injectors and spark to the plugs but it seems...

"Relay: Turn on the key and jumper the ECC test connector as previously described. Look for 12 volts at the dark green\yellow wire (relay controlled power for the fuel pump). No voltage there means that the relay has failed, or there is a broken wire in the relay control circuit." This test...

I tried jumping the ecc and that kicked the pump on. Now I need to do the other tests and wanted to know if the key should be on for the power tests to the relays. Thanks

Thanks jrichker:hail2: , I'll give that check list a try in the morning.

How do I check the relay?

I just changed the fuel pump on my 1992 5.0. I figured it was bad because the car just died while going down the road and upon further examination found it was not getting any fuel and I couldn't hear the pump prime up when the key was turned on. Well now the pump has been replaced and It's...

Try here, they have alot of new and used stuff. http://www.stangparts.com/

I had a similar problem with mine. I have an auto so you might want to check the clutch switch first. First off, clean all your connections and make sure all your grounds are clean. Mine turned out to be the small slip on wire going to the solenoid was corroded an not making contact. Drove me...

Can anyone explain this code? "96 High speed fuel pump High speed fuel pump or circuit failure" The car is a 1992 5.0 Mustang. Thanks.

It was the P.O.S. starter. Thanks for everyones suggestions. Did them all, now I shouldn't have any problems :D

That's it. Thanks for all your help.