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I initially had it between the valve cover and alternator right near where the plug wires route, but ended routing it lower and beneath the alternator to get it further away from my plug wires. I’ll try to get some pictures when I have a chance.

I installed the kit a few years ago after my car died due to an overheating TFI while driving 60 MPH. I have had no issues with my tach after installing it. The wires going to the TFI are shielded but still susceptible to interference so make sure you keep them as far away from the plug wires...

Mine does the same thing and like you it seems to be coming from the passenger side. I think it’s oil draining back into the pan from the heads but who knows.

I fought those issues for years before giving up and getting a tune. Some cars run perfectly fine without one but mine didn’t. The tune modified the dashpot settings so the anti-stall would stay active for a few seconds after coming to a stop. In other words my RPMs hang at 850-900 until my car...

I replaced the factory sub in my F150 with the Kicker hideaway and it's not bad for the money and ease of install.

I would recommend adding a sub. You’re never going to get good mid/bass out of a fox without one as everything they mount to is flimsy. Once you get the sub you can then cross over your coaxial speakers which will improve their mid bass performance as your head unit’s built in amp is not...

I have a similar setup and run a 155 lph. Seems to do just fine. I'm also in the camp of not putting a 255 lph on stock fuel system because of the issues mentioned above.

I’ll say this. I bought the Spectra Premium pan show above from Rock Auto to replace my crusty stock pan. Thank God I tested it before putting everything fully back together because it leaked at the rear of the engine like you wouldn’t believe. Seems the pan wasn’t stamped right. I ended up...

I would check all your battery and ground connections (including the starter solenoid) as something could have shifted when you were turning causing a bad connection. Also pull the passenger side kick panel and make sure all the wires harnesses and grounds near the computer are tight. It...

Yes you do if you don't have adjustable rocker arms, else the lifter will have to be at the edge of it's travel and you'll have a noisy valve train. According to some instructions I found from Ford Racing the stock lifters have .140" of possible travel. It's been years since I setup my valve...

If you want to get the most out of the combo I would recommend: Headers and mid-pipe (shorties are easier and cheaper but long tubes will make more power) Upgraded fuel pump ( a 155 will be plenty) ARP head bolts or studs stud mount roller rockers, ratio depending on what aftermarket cam you...

This is my suggestion also. I've been running one for a few years in my fox and it's a great radiator for the money.

Tuff Stuff also makes a new pump. I have one on my '91 and it's nice and quite. The only problem I had with it is that it came with the old style ('83-'89) high pressure flange on it and I had to swap the one over from my old pump, but that shouldn't be a issue with your car...

If you really want to do a cam the Comp XE264-HR14 would do what you are asking. I can cruise at 1200 RPMs all day with no bucking. Just make sure your springs can handle the .512” of lift. Like other have said you really need to change the gears to at least 3.27 and 3.55s would be better.

I have the same Ford Racing valve covers as M5L5. I'm using Scorpion low profile 1.6RRs and a Cobra intake. I didn't need to clearance the valve covers or remove the baffles to clear the RRs. I also do NOT run a plenum spacer. All I did to get the intake to clear was slot the throttle...

That’s what I did and it works fine.

I routed mine as close to stock as possible and found a place on the frame rail to bolt it to. This picture isn’t the best but maybe it will help.

If it’s a ‘89 it needs the MAF sensor regardless of the intake. Only exception would be an aftermarket computer like a Terminator X. So I would start with getting the MAF situation figured out.

I would pickup a regular EFI intake like a Trick Flow, Cobra, or Explorer and swap it in place of the BBK.

I would recommend you get a 192* for the thermostat. The computer expects the engine to run at that temp. My guess would be that the chip is compensating for a different injector/MAF combo and that’s why it doesn’t want to run without it.