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I would replace it soon. Most likely it will only shorten the pad life. Worst case is if it chunks off and wrecks the caliper/axle/etc.

I used some stuff called "CLR" (Calcium, and Lime Remover) that I found at Walgreen's. Put some in the water and sprayed them for awhile. The next morning it was unclogged. I will probably add it every few months to keep them clean.

It is most likely a bad motor mount. It shouldn't cost too much to have replaced. I have never done it on the Mustang but on other cars it was somewhere near $200 or so installed. Get it replaced soon if it is the motor mount. Too much rocking in the engine bay can wreck other stuff like...

I really like my Tokicos. I have absolutely no complaints....and they are cheaper.

I welded a bung onto the thermostat housing and tapped it for the sender. Just removed the top hose and caught the coolant in a small bucket, then removed the housing to get welded. I used teflon tape with no problems. Then refilled with the original coolant and done. Took about 1 hour...

pulley change is noticable. if you have trouble and need to go to dealship then i would remove them and put the stockers back on. that way they cannot deny service or try to blame some other problem on the pulleys. some dealerships may not care about the pulleys and some might...don't give...

How large is your system? I am running 1400Watts without a capacitor and I have no troubles at all, light barely dim when I am at idle...but just barely. I just left the stock alt. pulley on when I switched the others. No problems yet.

I agree with above...but I would only do the front brakes. Get the front calipers and rotors. They will bolt up fine but you must have 17" rims or they will hit your rims...Bullitt rims work well. Order some stainless steel brake lines and install those at the same time (order the lines for a...

There should only be 2 gears. I would assume that by saying "5 gears" you are thinking of the transmission gears...i.e. a 5-speed tranny. These are rear-end gears. These go into the rear axle of the car, not the tranny. By changing the gears in the rear end you are effectively changing the...

I may be wrong, but I think that there are some codes that must be "erased" from the ECU's memory and will not go away even if the battery is disconnected. That means getting the code read and erased. The above may be incorrect info, but I had to buy a diagnostic code reader/eraser in order to...

You need a tie-rod puller. You can rent them at the auto-parts store. The puller is basically a fork that you put use on the rod to pry it off. They should rent for cheap. Or you can get some spring compressors (also at the auto parts store) and use those to compress the springs and...

There is not much you can do to remove air pockets other than drive the car and fill as needed. It's more up to the designer of the engine and manifolds to eliminate air pockets. Don't go below a 180* thermostat.

I'd call Autometer first and see what they say. Could be a bad sender, usually the gages themselves don't go bad.

I couldn't find one with the flat panel so I had to get a pocket version from Scosche. Sorry I can't be more helpful. I like the pocket...it holds two decks of poker cards nicely.

Get the 4.10's. Launching is easy (and fast).

Where did you put the temp sender? Has it ever worked correctly? My best guess is that you T-ed it into the stock sender and got air bubbles next to the sender. I had to weld a bung into the aluminum thermostat housing and tap the sender into that in order to get it to work right. How is...

I use RP when I can get it (or think far enough ahead to order some). Mobil 1 when I don't get RP. I always use a Motorcraft 820s filter.

I just did oil and water this weekend. Oil was easy, water was a little more complicated. There is an extra spot for the oil pressure sender. It's just below the stock sensor. Remove the plug, let some oil drain out from the filter (less than one cup total) and install the oil sender...

I just hooked up water, oil, and boost gages on the A-pillar. I cannot figure out how to hook up the boost gage in the engine compartment. I know that I just need to splice it into the vacuum hose for the motor but I cannot find a connector that will splice that tiny hose from the Autometer...

I got the Steeda's and I like them. As said above, just follow the directions and there should be no problems.