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We got a fox 8.8" with the car, but it doesn't have any drums/shoes/etc, just backing plates. Can we use the drums and misc. brake parts off of the stock 7.5? As of right now, I'm under the impression that the driveshaft will bolt up and the 4cyl brake parts will fit the 8.8?? I see 9" and...

Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net Look into a Moates Quarterhorse. It does realtime, on the fly tuning like a Tweecer RT but the software and datalogging are much better, and it's cheaper.

Maybe the chain jumped timing? Distributor drive shaft busted? Does the rotor turn when you crank the car? Are you running a HV oil pump? Those have a history of being hard on the distributor drive shaft.

I'd probably expect 160psi+ out of a higher compression motor with an aftermarket cam. Sounds like it ought to rock and roll though! :D

Heh, I guess that's what I get for reading the directions. :D Thanks guys.

Yeah, I figured it out after spending a few minutes staring at it...lots of extensions with a wobble extension at the end would make it a real easy job. Ended up pulling the engine with the bellhousing, which was probably a good decision, since that showed us that both shock towers are a little...

I just bought a nice used tri-ax shifter and noticed that it was covered in grease. When I looked down inside, next to the rear stop bolt, i could see that they had packed the rear half with grease. Steeda's website doesn't say anything about greasing it like this....I'm tempted to clean it all...

Got the blown T5 out last night, but the headers look like they are in the way of the bellhousing. I'm not really looking forward to taking the headers off just to get the bellhousing out, but if I gotta, I gotta. Is there a way around it?

Put in an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and use the stock pump. Turn it down to ~6psi and you'll be good to go. Sounds like you've got everything else figured out...I don't like the freakin' huge HEI setups, but they work.

If this is the new style clutch that fits a 5.0L flywheel, I might be interested. Got any pics?

You can make it work. There's no hole in the block for the dipstick, you'll have to use your oil pickup and oil pan, timing cover, all the brackets and probably a 5.0L timing chain set. The 5.0L waterpump is a different length than a 289 unit, and you'll need a 1971+ 4-bolt 28oz balancer to...

Both the TFS and Ford kits are backordered out the ying-yang, if I'm reading Summit's website right. Sucks too, I'm looking for a ~$100 valve spring kit myself.

You need 5.155" rods with a 289 crank and 5.090" rods with a 302 crank. 5.400" are stroker rods. Plus, you'd have to have the 289 crank machined if you wanted to fit it into a 1pc rear main 5.0 block

A 289 block isn't *THAT* much stronger than a 5.0L block. The 289 block will take some fancy machine work to take the 1-pc rear main seal 5.0 crank and it doesn't have the hole in the side of the block for a dipstick either. I wouldn't mess with the 289, I'd just finish rebuilding the 5.0.

We're working on the V8 swap from hell car (see sig) and there are frigging wires hanging everywhere. It LOOKS like they used the correct V8 wiring harnesses, but with the amount of thing that just aren't hooked up, I'm starting to wonder if there is a way to look at it and tell if it IS the...

Nope. Dampening has nada to do with it. Neither does the possibility that thin oil will get into the nooks and crannies. Fords that are knocking due to wear often suffer from low oil pressure and too-big clearances on the bearings. Thicker oil raises the oil pressure, which gets more oil where...

As far as using thinner oil to quiet engine noise, I don't know what they're smoking. You want THICKER oil to quiet it down, partly because it raises the oil pressure.

I can't think of a single 351W part that will work, even the thermostats are different. That's a 351C with a stroker crank in it. Sounds like the block has had some serious work done to it if it's been sleeved...that was the hot trick for 351C motors 30 years ago. If it's got early 4V heads on...

I've seen a SN95 T5 in a 65, 67, and 1970 and all of them fit great. Most fox T5s require trimming the front of the hole to fit the shifter. I don't know that they fit any better, but it seems like nobody has had a problem using a newer T5. :shrug:

2H19 is the date code, August 19, 1992 (1982??) On newer heads, the casting numbers are stamped next to a combustion chamber...gotta take em off to read it.