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Do you still have these?

If it is hard to start hot you either have exhaust to close to the starter and it is heatsoaking, or you have timing to high. If the timing is that high you must have a great tune or not much mechanical advance.

yep, and everything I have seen says they flow within 5 cfm of each other.

May not be what you are wanting to hear, but I like the Weiand stealth much better than the two listed.

t5+gear oil = one screwed up paper weight. Ford designed that trans to use ATF and gear oil will not lubricate it properly. I am going to use Mercon SP in mine.

First thing you need to do is get an aftermarket gauge or an infrared thermometer and see what the temp is, it could be anything from a bad gauge, to a bad sender, to an actual problem. Worst case you should be able to get a cheap gauge from the zone ($20).

Hate to say it but in all probability you have a busted piston maybe worse....... pull it and see what happened.

Did you connect that battery back up ;) ? sorry had to, yeah I am betting on the small starter lead.

LOL you guys are killing me. Stump sure what you are talking about is possible, not sure how much you will gain but I know of a local chevelle that picked up .1 in the 1/8th by completly bypassing the alt. so....... ignore the haters and go for it.

well I mean if you want to run go for it, you are burning clutch material and creating hot spots on the flywheel/pressure plate though....

WTF are you talking about it freely spins? pull the needle off and restick it...... you are still going to be slightly off, but not as bad.

Cut between the tubes (I usually only do between the midle two) and use Percy's gaskets.

Yep, thanks for all of your replies, I had already went over everything you have mentioned and it was all fine. I got it figured out though and Autometer had better have the new sender here QUICK. I did the obvious, drove it till it "overheated" shot it with a I/R thermometer it checked fine...

destroyed models like that are long complecated creations and that guy has my complete respect.

Sending unit is in the top of the intake right before the t-stat, this is a carbed motor. oh and it is the proper autometer sending unit. Ok, I have had systems with air in them before and all I did was jack the front end up and let it reach opening temp and then refill and I was fine, I...

the infrared thermeter is a Mac tools one..... if I remember it was like $125-$200 (not really sure) but it is handy at work for finding which cylinder is missing and stuff like this as well though I don't know if a hobbyist could justify buying one....

k, well here we go. Haven't posted much about this but I have been having cooling problems. BeCool aluminum radiater Stock stang t-stat (195* I believe) electric fan etc etc. Autometer gauges k, when I drive it the temp climbs like normal (about 5 miles and it is at 190 on the gauge)...

With a completely dry trans you will use about 10 quarts...... where is it coming out the dipstick tube? it should not leak anywhere if it is comoing out it would have to be at the top and there is no way it is that full.

defiantly doesn't hurt to flush ford PS ever so often. the most common reason for what you are describing is turning the steering wheel even slightly with the car off, it will pop the cap and often spray fluid.

what kind of PCV setup are you running? also according to ford a new vehicle can burn up to a quart of oil and 3,000 miles and it be "normal" (bull****). If everything is right you should only burn minimal amounts of oil between changes.