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LOWER YOUR DAMN CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks sick dude main, can't wait to tune with the Tweecer R/T :hail2: :drool:

well you definetly need no less than 4.10's. If you plan on going supercharged in the future you might want to take the 4.10's over the 4.30's. Sure, the 4.30's will be slightly faster right now, but if you get a blower it will most likely be too much gear. Thats why i picked the 4.10's over...

i have that beautiful system in my snake and i noticed that the car definetly ran smoother and ran harder. haven't got it dynoed, but i know that there's more there with a tune.

from what i've seen the 03 cobra crate motors cost around 11-12,000 bills. Im sure that someone like VT Engines or sean hyland could make a stronger 5.0 stroker that you could supercharge for cheaper than that. is there any particular reason that you want to get the 03 motor?

so if the saying of 1 mph equals about 10 horses is true, you gain about 30 hp? I had the JLT RAI and it fit bad too, i didn't feel like i gained that much power.

I thought that the Mach 1 cams had different cams, gound more for low end and drop off a little on the top?

OK well then thanks Dave. HAHA, yeah im going on the 25th to the track. Hopefully it wont be too hot. and also Dyno Day on the 24th.

The thing that scares me the most about women drivers, at least the young ones, is their shoes. My ex wears these freakin shoes that have like a 3 inch soul, so shes taller and such. Every girl seems to have them, and my girl is always having problems with them slipping off and she does...

I just put the WMS system on and love it. A buddy of mine put the Densecharger on his 99 snake and it looked like ****, it looks like they just bought alot of PVC pipe from Home Depot and threw it in the mail. C&L sucks, seems to the consensus around the boards.

I'd go with the accufab, you probably have to cut the manifold to remove the middle section where the throttle body meets the manifold but from seeing the BBK and accufab and having the accufab with the WMS, it makes a big difference in throttle response and seems like it'll suck a lot more air...

When he had the CCRM unplugged he had the same problem, car wouldn't start, but the fuel pump primed.

hey guys, i had a quick question about the Mr. Clean AutoDry car wash. what is the car wash "soap" that we put in, i just wonder how it compares to Dawn in removing the wax. also what wax does everyone recommend? i was considering trying zaino, but i've heard good things about the new NXT...

well i went to home depot and picked up basically the same fittings that steeda is selling and some copper tubing to run the gauge to any easier place. i've seen a guy at the track with one on his 98, it was a BBK, it was a gift so we'll see.

hey guys need your help. this morning i went to install my new Aeromotive FPR and VDO gauge. the FPR fits fine but theres no way in hell that i can get the gauge on there too, theres like a 1/4 inch gap. has anyone put a FPR on their cobra and has the gauge with it too? i don't want to just...

thanks for the help guys, mine has gotten pretty dirty and have never really had the time to clean it off.

ttt

my engine bay is starting to look like sh** and i want to clean it. how do i go about it, do i just spray some water on it?? i wouldn't think so but i have no idea. any tips are much appreciated.

with all the exhaust mods and no intake you might go super rich, i know i did. also, basically as soon as you get the 4.30's you need the NITTO'S!! unless you like to spin all the way throug third gear

when i put in my Vspec T-56 i was going to get a SPEC stage 2 put in but i had the wrong size, so i just had a king cobra put in and with the DR's i bark the living crap outta 3rd. i even got some reduced pedal effort.

bottom line is if you go to the track every weekend you should go with 4.30's, but if you're like me and go 2 times a month then go with the 4.10's, they'll treat you better on the street.