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That's funny, because if you look at ANY lower intake where it mounts to the heads they all have square ports. Which is what I was refering to.

I have an Edelbrock Performer RPM for sale if anyone is interested. The lower has been ported/cleaned up to match a Cobra lower and the upper has some port/cleaning as well. I also have the 94-95 intake elbow and a brand new 70mm t-body. I also have ARP upper and lower intake bolts. I'm trying...

The stock bottom end can run 400 easy, without any major problems. Anything over 500 at the wheels, is where they become prone for problems ie: if it detonates you'll split the block in two. Go ahead and get the single turbo and later worry about H/C/I when you put a new motor in. Besides you'd...

Why is it any time a thread about shifters someone always makes a comment about someone else not being able to shift :shrug: Personaly I don't like the tri-ax and have luke warm feelings towards the pro 5.0. I like the Hurst shifters the best, but it's all personal preference. I would...

you have to build your own to get that look. the 99&up are all electronic.

Yes I do want to sell the blower,but I was being serious when I said get blown first. I ran my S-trim on the stock block, and if I had waited until I got the motor built that I wanted then I would have missed out on alot of fun. Anyway there is a guy down where I live who has a mid ten...

Get the forced induction first. You'll have it to play with sooner rather than later. A stock block will hold as long as you don't go crazy with the boost, or detonate the motor.

I took off my smog pump and reclocked my tensioner so that I could still have all my accessories. :nice:

Buy a blower, it's the cheapest option of everthing you have listed

I'm basically going to say what S/Cblack95GT has said, leave the PCV valve in and also use a breather filter. You said in your first post that your buddy got in and matted it, where as you roll into. At 15psi that is alot of pressure in the crank case and it has to have a way to get out. ie...

If I remember right they're only 5lbs. lighter than the Y2K's and those weigh about 30# a piece. The chrome wheels will be a few pounds heavier.

No intercooler, and I sent you a pm about the rest. :D

I made over 400 at the wheels on stock compression and pump gas with the blower in my sig. that I'm selling.

I've always ran the Ford Motorcraft plugs and never had a problem.

Unless you're planning on running slicks in near future you don't need the 31 splines. Out of your options I would go with the radiator.

Don't bother getting the smog pump delete kit, just re-clock your tensioner. I had the same problem and that's what I did. Your tensioner sits in a 12 & 6 o'clock position right now what you want to do is pull it off and drill a new hole in the bracket so that it sits in a 9 & 3 o'clock postion...

If you're going to remove it don't even waste the money on the eliminator bracket, just run a shorter belt. And if you do take it off don't forget to pull the tab & tad valves inside the fender. on edit: forgot to mention that you will need to re-clock the belt tensioner.

I would definately not recommend the Nitto's. The will last, but don't hook worth a *****. I never could cut anything better than a 2.1 60' on the Nitto's. I could cut a 2.0 on my 18" street tires, so my opinion is go with the BFG's.

Thanks for the complement. :D It rides fine. I haven't noticed a big difference from when I had my 17's or 18's.